Brewing Up an Eatery

Paul Miller hasn’t earned a regular wage since he quit his day job almost two years ago.

But the 39-year-old Miller has been putting in long, arduous hours, and his efforts are about to pay off.

“I’m going to get a paycheck in a couple weeks,” he said.

Miller is founder and operator of the stylish Anacapa Brewing Company in Ventura. The restaurant-brewery is the latest in a series of eateries to open along an energized downtown Main Street. Miller’s prime location--and the uniqueness of the business to the area--has put Anacapa squarely under the magnifying glass: It is anticipated that a success story could considerably benefit downtown revitalization efforts by boosting exposure and foot traffic.

Anacapa Brewing Company is housed at 472 E. Main St. After sitting dormant and dilapidated since the 1960s, the structure is now a transformed rectangular space with an extended sight line from front to back. It features a high, wood-beam ceiling and newly exposed brick walls, laced with cement mortar, that date back to the beginning of the 20th century.

The massive renovation and redesign have resulted in a contemporary space that accentuates the building’s architectural heritage.

“I wanted to balance out a classy, modern look with rustic industrial,” Miller said.

The latter refers, in part, to the bulky stainless steel brewery tanks standing prominently behind a bar, which runs along one side of the room. Vibrant abstract paintings by Marty Ketcham hang opposite the brew system and, teamed with other modern interior accouterments, help inject a trendy aesthetic.

Anacapa opened about a week ago, after being beset by months-long delays. The old building, which demanded a complete retrofitting, posed many hurdles, and there were budgetary scares as well.

“There were a couple times when I thought it wasn’t going to happen, just because of what we had to overcome,” said Miller, who leases the space.

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Though Miller is entering the restaurant business for the first time, his experience as a production supervisor at Amgen Inc. prepared him to juggle myriad details and handle the pressures of opening a business.

Miller conceived the idea of owning his own business about three years ago. Boredom with the corporate structure and the desire to do his own thing led to his departure from the Thousand Oaks biotech company.

He cashed out some stock, signed on a few silent partners and put the money into an opportunity he saw as ripe for the taking.

“It is a niche that hasn’t really been tapped into [in] the downtown area,” he said.

Miller did industry research to draft his business plan and set out to build a strong supporting cast. He leans heavily on a veteran restaurant consultant, along with wife Kara, master brewer Guy Bartmess, bar manager Mark Brockway and executive chef Ventura Mayor Sandy Smith.

The brewery features hand-crafted ales and lagers, along with a specialized and varied menu. Appetizer highlights include an asiago cheese dip, served with fresh vegetables and beer bread and a selection of gourmet sausages. Specialty salads, pastas and pizzas are also served.

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Smith--familiar to local diners from his past affiliations with Rosarito Beach Cafe and Joe Daddy’s--shows his regional culinary influences with the spicy jambalaya, pork chop stuffed with Andouille sausage-cornbread dressing, and Angus beef sirloin steak rubbed with Southwestern spices. Atop the signature sandwich list is barbecued pulled pork heaped onto a French roll.

Daily lunch service will begin today, and menu additions are in the works. Anacapa will open each day at 11:30 a.m. and remain open as patronage allows.

“We’ll let Ventura tell us what they want to do,” Miller said.

DETAILS

Anacapa Brewing Company is at 472 E. Main St., in downtown Ventura. Hours: Tue.-Sun., 11:30 a.m. until closing. The restaurant is closed Mondays but available for private parties. There is seating for about 95, including a few outdoor patio tables. Call 643-2337. Internet: https://www.anacapabrewing.com.

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Rodney Bosch writes about the restaurant scene in Ventura County and outlying points. He can be reached by phone at 653-7572, by fax at 653-7576 or by e-mail at: rodney.bosch@latimes.com.