An Easter Buffet

Bunnies, bonnets and baskets are all part of Easter and, with the holiday’s relaxed style, so are buffets.

But unlike the first three, buffets strike fear in the hearts of some. Think of all those dishes to prepare. Think of all those diners standing impatiently in line. Don’t fret: We in the Times Test Kitchen have put together a menu to make your Easter fuss-free.

First, of course, is the biggest question: lamb or ham? Lamb seems so sophisticated, so very European; ham is homespun American. When it came time to choose the centerpiece of our buffet, we didn’t. Why not serve both? (Those of you who are more decisive can pick one; the rest of the menu will work just fine with either.)

Ham is rich and salty, so it works best with flavors that are tangy and sweet. Rather than using a predictable jam glaze, we marinated our ham overnight with red grapefruit juice and rosemary.

Leg of lamb is a spring favorite. Because of its unusual anatomy, though, it can be tricky to carve, particularly when everyone is watching. We got around that problem by boning and butterflying the leg. This has the additional benefit of allowing it to cook more quickly.

The rest of the menu just seemed to come naturally. Any Easter meal needs stuffed eggs. For another appetizer, try this rustic goat cheese and roasted vegetable tart.

With the best of the spring vegetables in the market, deciding on side dishes is easy. Artichokes, of course, roasted with lemons and olives. And potatoes and watercress, paired in a lovely warm salad. Though the biggest part of the fig harvest comes in the heat of summer, there is a small first-flush harvest in the spring. We roasted our figs in Port and served them with mixed lettuces.

And then there are strawberries. This is the very peak of the season, particularly in Southern California, and to show the fruit at its best advantage, we turned an old family favorite into something a little bit fancy.

All of these dishes can be made ahead and then assembled with a minimum of hassle just before serving.

And hey, if anybody complains, just give them some more ham ... or lamb.

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Roasted Baby Artichokes With Lemons and Olives

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

The fragrance of herbes de Provence-a combination of dried herbs such as fennel, lavender, marjoram, sage, thyme and basil-reminds Rae of spring. This dish can be served hot, warm or at room temperature.

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Juice of 2 lemons

4 pounds baby artichokes, or about 35 artichokes

3 lemons, cut into 1/4-inch slices

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons herbes de Provence

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups assorted pitted olives

* Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

* Fill a large bowl with water and add the lemon juice. Peel off the outer leaves of the artichokes until you reach the tender pale green leaves in the center. Use a paring knife to cut most of the stems off each artichoke, leaving about 1 inch. Pare off the tough outer skin of the stems. Cut 1/4 inch off the tip end of each artichoke, cut them in half and place the halves in the lemon water. After you’ve trimmed all the artichokes, drain them, pat dry and place them in a large bowl. Add the sliced lemons.

Stir in the salt, pepper to taste and the herbes de Provence. Pour in the olive oil and combine. Spoon the artichokes into a large roasting pan. Arrange the lemon slices over the artichokes and cover with foil. Bake for 20 minutes. Stir in the olives, cover and roast until the artichokes are tender, another 20 minutes.

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8 servings. Each serving: 197 calories; 1,221 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 11grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 11.60 grams fiber.

Sun-Dried Tomato-Stuffed Eggs

Active Work Time: 25 minutes

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

These stuffed eggs from our Test Kitchen intern Mary Ellen Rae are best the day they are made. You can make them a day ahead, however, up to the point of piping the filling into the eggs; just keep everything refrigerated, and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the yolk mixture to keep it fresh. Fill the eggs just before serving.

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12 eggs

8 sun-dried tomatoes (not in oil)

2 tablespoons capers, drained and chopped

1 large shallot, finely minced

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 cup mayonnaise

4 tablespoons thinly sliced basil, divided

Place the 12 eggs in a large saucepan. Fill with cool water. Bring the water to boil over medium heat. As soon as it boils, reduce the heat to simmer and cook the eggs 20 minutes. Fill a bowl with ice cubes and cold water and set aside.

Meanwhile, place the sun-dried tomatoes in a microwave-safe bowl and cover them with water. Microwave for 2 minutes, then let the tomatoes sit several minutes until they have softened. Drain on paper towels, then finely mince.

When the eggs are cooked, lift them from the pan using a slotted spoon and place them in the cold water. Chill completely, then peel and slice them in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks and push them through a potato ricer or a meshed strainer to break them up into small pieces. This will help make a smoother mixture.

Combine the yolks, tomatoes, capers, shallot, mustard, mayonnaise and 2 tablespoons of basil in a small bowl. Stir to combine.

If the egg whites are inclined to roll around on a plate, cut a very thin slice off the bottom. Fill a pastry bag fitted with the star tip with the egg yolk mixture. Pipe the filling into the egg whites, then garnish the eggs with the remaining basil. If you don’t have a pastry bag, you can cut the tip off a resealable bag to pipe in the filling, or use a teaspoon. Cover the eggs with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

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24 eggs. Each egg: 61 calories; 137 mg sodium; 97 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.35 gram fiber.

Rustic Goat Cheese and Roasted Vegetable Tart

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 10 minutes * Vegetarian

Save time by using a ready-made refrigerated pie crust (not the ones found in tins). But you can also use your favorite pate brisee recipe to make an unbaked pie crust, Rae says.

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Nonstick cooking spray

1 zucchini, thinly sliced

1 yellow squash, thinly sliced

1/2 pound assorted mushrooms, sliced into small equal pieces

2 shallots, thinly sliced

2 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced

1 red bell pepper, diced small

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

4 ounces goat cheese, room temperature

3 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 eggs

1 (15-ounce) package refrigerated pie crusts for 2-crust 9-inch pie

Set a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Spray 2 baking sheets with nonstick cooking spray.

Combine the zucchini, squash, mushrooms, shallots, tomatoes, bell pepper, thyme and oregano in a large bowl. Stir in the oil to coat the vegetables and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.

Pour the vegetables into a large roasting pan in a single layer and roast until the vegetables are softened, 15 minutes.

While the vegetables are roasting, combine the goat, cream and Parmesan cheeses in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add 1 egg and mix on high until smooth, 2 minutes.

Unwrap the pie crusts and place 1 on each baking sheet. Repair any tears in the dough. Divide the cheese mixture between the crusts, spreading it to within 2 inches of the edges. Spread the vegetables on top of the cheese filling, dividing them between the crusts. Fold in the sides of the crusts to the middle (they won’t reach the center) so that each fold overlaps the last slightly to form a rustic-looking tart. Pinch the overlapping edges to seal. Beat the remaining egg and brush it on the crusts to coat.

Bake the tarts until the crusts are golden brown, 20 minutes.

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8 main course servings or 16 side servings. Each of 16 servings: 251 calories; 161 mg sodium; 38 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.15 grams fiber.

Warm New Potato and Watercress Salad With Roasted Leek Vinaigrette

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

Test Kitchen assistant Mayi Brady prefers to use red new potatoes in this salad.

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2 leeks, white and pale green parts only

3/4 cup olive oil, divided

Salt, pepper

3 pounds small boiling potatoes

2 bunches watercress

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/4 cup Sherry vinegar

* Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

* Cut the leeks in half lengthwise and wash thoroughly. Place them in a medium roasting pan and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast the leeks until they are tender and slightly charred, about 30 minutes.

* While the leeks are roasting, steam the potatoes until they are tender, about 25 minutes.

* Separate the leaves and tender stems of the watercress and place in a large bowl. When the leeks are done, slice them thinly and place them in the bowl with the watercress.

* Combine the Dijon and Sherry vinegar in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

* When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut them in half and toss them with the watercress and leeks. Drizzle the vinaigrette over and toss to combine.

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 278 calories; 91 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 2.58 grams fiber.

Roasted Fig Salad With Toasted Pecans and Gorgonzola

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour * Vegetarian

Normally, Rae serves this salad with thin slices of prosciutto. Its saltiness goes extremely well with the sweet figs. Since this is to be served with an Easter ham, she found the salad worked just as well without the prosciutto. Look for fig balsamic vinegar at gourmet grocers and stores such as Trader Joe’s.

FIG BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

1 small shallot, finely minced

1/4 cup fig balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon fresh minced rosemary

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 cup olive oil

Whisk together the shallot, vinegar, rosemary, mustard and oil until emulsified.

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SALAD

12 dried figs (about 1 cup), stems removed and cut into quarters

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 small shallot, finely minced

1/2 tablespoon fresh minced rosemary

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup Port

1 cup unbroken pecan halves

15 ounces mesclun mix salad greens

1 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Combine the figs, brown sugar, shallot, rosemary, balsamic vinegar and Port in a glass or ceramic baking dish. Bake, stirring several times, until the figs have softened and taken on a slightly roasted appearance, 30 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

While the figs are roasting, toast the pecans on a dry baking sheet until they’re crisp and deep brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

Wash and dry the greens and place them in a large bowl. Toss the greens with the Fig Balsamic Vinaigrette. Divide the greens among 8 chilled salad plates. Remove the figs from the roasting liquid and place about 6 on each plate. Sprinkle the salads with the pecans and crumbled Gorgonzola.

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8 servings. Each serving: 356 calories; 164 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 5.12 grams fiber.

Herb-Marinated Butterflied Leg Of Lamb

Active Work Time: 20 minutes

Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 8 hours marinating

Unless you’re very handy with a boning knife, Brady suggests having your butcher bone and butterfly the leg of lamb. The results will be more attractive, and you’ll save yourself a lot of aggravation.

1 head garlic

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme

1 tablespoon minced fresh mint

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup olive oil

1 (5-to 6-pound) leg of lamb

Separate, then peel the cloves of garlic and mince them. Place the garlic in a bowl along with the rosemary, thyme, mint, salt, pepper to taste, wine and olive oil.

Place the lamb in a large resealable plastic bag and pour the marinade over the top, making sure that the entire leg of lamb is coated. Seal tightly and refrigerate overnight.

Remove the lamb from the refrigerator about 1 hour before cooking.

Grill the lamb over medium-hot coals until the internal temperature reaches about 130 degrees for medium-rare, about 30 minutes.

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8 servings. Each serving: 564 calories; 398 mg sodium; 148 mg cholesterol; 44 grams fat; 16 grams saturated fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 37 grams protein; 0.44 gram fiber.

Strawberry Ice Cream Angel Cake

Active Work Time: 1 hour * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours plus 2 hours freezing

Brady found that a store-bought angel food cake works just fine in this recipe, but if you have the time, make your own. Most markets sell microwaveable chocolate coating that makes the chocolate-covered strawberries a snap.

ICE CREAM

1 1/2 pounds strawberries

3/4 cup sugar, divided

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 egg yolks

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

1 1/2 cups milk

Wash, stem and slice the strawberries. Place 2/3 of them into a blender with 1/4 cup of the sugar and the lemon juice. Blend until smooth. Set aside.

Combine the egg yolks and remaining sugar in a medium bowl and whisk until thick and pale yellow, about 3 minutes. Set aside.

Heat the cream and milk in a large saucepan over medium heat just until bubbles begin to form around the edges, about 5 minutes. Pour about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture into the sugar and egg yolk mixture while stirring constantly. Return it to the milk mixture and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 4 minutes.

Let the hot liquid cool about 5 minutes, then stir in the pureed strawberries. Let cool to room temperature, then freeze according to the instructions with your ice cream maker.

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ASSEMBLY

6 large stemmed strawberries

1 (7-ounce) package chocolate coating

1 (1-pound) angel food cake

3 cups whipping cream

1/4 cup powdered sugar

While the ice cream is freezing, coat the stemmed strawberries with the chocolate coating, then refrigerate.

Cut a very thin slice (about 1/4 inch) horizontally from the top of the cake. Set the top aside.

Working with a small sharp knife, carefully hollow out a “trench” in the middle of the cake about 3/4 inch from the sides; discard the part of the cake you cut out. Spoon or pipe the ice cream into the trench until it is even with the cake. (You will have leftover ice cream that can be served with the cake.) Layer the remaining sliced strawberries over the ice cream. Replace the top of the cake, wrap it well and freeze until solid, at least 2 hours or overnight.

Remove the cake from the freezer and let it sit at room temperature, 30 minutes. Meanwhile, whip the cream and the powdered sugar until stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes. Remove the top from the cake and pipe about 1/3 of the whipped cream on top of the strawberries. Replace the top, then pipe the remaining cream on top of the cake and decorate it with the chocolate-covered strawberries.

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8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 520 calories; 418 mg sodium; 157 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 15 grams saturated fat; 66 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.64 grams fiber.

Ham With Red Grapefruit Glaze

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 4 hours 10 minutes plus 8 hours marinating

This recipe is from Test Kitchen Director Donna Deane.

1 cup red grapefruit juice

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons orange liqueur

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter

1 fully cooked bone-in whole ham, about 20 pounds

Garlic cloves, cut into slivers

Rosemary sprigs

Red grapefruit slices, cut in half, for garnish

Combine the grapefruit juice, brown sugar, Dijon, orange liqueur, salt and butter in a small saucepan. Heat to simmering. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce is reduced to 1 cup, about 10 minutes. Let the marinade cool.

Remove the skin from the ham and trim the fat so that only a thin layer remains. Make 1-inch cuts over the surface of the ham and fill each with a sliver of garlic and sprig of rosemary. Place the ham in a large resealable plastic bag and pour the marinade over it. Refrigerate the ham overnight, turning the bag several times so all sides marinate evenly.

Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

Remove the ham from the marinade and place it on a rack in a shallow baking pan. Cover the fat portion of the ham with foil. Bake the ham until a thermometer inserted in the ham registers 130 degrees, 10 to 15 minutes per pound, about 3 1/2 hours. Baste the ham with marinade every 20 minutes. Remove the foil from the ham during the last 1 1/2 hours of roasting so the top of the ham will become a golden brown.

Set the ham on a platter and let it stand 15 minutes before carving. Garnish the platter with sprigs of rosemary and grapefruit slices.

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12 servings. Each serving: 550 calories; 2,958 mg sodium; 125 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 42 grams protein; 0.04 gram fiber.

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Linens, flatware, crystal from Christofle, Beverly Hills. Noritake “Gourmet Garden” dishes from Kingsway Road, Tustin.

Photographed at the American Red Cross’ San Gabriel Valley Chapter Craven House in Pasadena.