Cold Soup

In the dog days of summer, cold soup refreshes the soul. * Cobras & Matadors: This casual restaurant offers a tangy gazpacho of tomatoes pureed with red onions, bell peppers and bread, splashed with Sherry vinegar and Spanish olive oil and garnished with a homemade crouton, minced yellow peppers, cucumbers and a bit of chive oil. (Gazpacho Andaluz, $7.) Cobras & Matadors, 7615 W. Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 932-6178.

* Moomba: The chilled spicy gazpacho here is made from tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions and roasted poblano and jalapeno chiles, topped with either charred lobster or shrimp salsa. There’s also a soup of roasted corn, carrots and celery topped with corn or shellfish salsa. (Soups, $9 to $11 depending on salsa.) Moomba, 665 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., (310) 652-6364.

* Traxx: Here you might find a chilled melon soup with a fig relish and ribbons of prosciutto, or a cucumber and avocado gazpacho flavored with lime, cilantro and yogurt and garnished with crab or shrimp. (Cold soup, small $4, large $6.) Traxx, Union Station, 800 N. Alameda St., L.A., (213) 625-1999.

* Cafe Pinot: New chef Mark Gold’s tomato gazpacho has corn stock, topped with peeky toe crab meat and a slightly earthy soup of chanterelle mushrooms and corn with fennel, cream and lobster. (Heirloom tomato gazpacho, $6; chanterelle and summer corn soup, $7.) Cafe Pinot, 700 W. Fifth St., downtown L.A., (213) 239-6500.

* House Restaurant: The cold soup of the day here might be white summer squash and yogurt soup garnished with herbs, or cucumber avocado soup topped with shrimp, or white corn with tomato and black-eyed pea relish, or potato-leek made with tarragon pesto. (Cold soup, $7.) House Restaurant, 5750 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, (323) 462-4687.

* Dexter’s: At this tiny restaurant equipped with an ocean view, Scott Savoy makes an array of luscious cold soups. You might find a chilled peach and yogurt soup with a touch of peach brandy and sweet spices, garnished with Port-soaked dried cranberries, or a cucumber-dill-yogurt soup topped with a large crouton covered in smoked salmon, or a chipotle avocado soup with creme fraiche on top. ( Soupe du jour , $6.) Dexter’s, 2892 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, (949) 497-8912.