Little Growers Flourish in Big Bear

The Big Bear area may be best known for hiking and skiing, but it also boasts a fine farmers market, California’s highest in elevation, which draws local and smaller growers.

Last week, Margarita Rios of Banning told shoppers that her husband, Fernando, had been up half the night trying to protect their orchard from marauding bears. Samples of her wonderfully peachy O’Henry peaches and classic Fantasia nectarines made clear why the beasts were so excited. (For city dwellers, Rios also sells at the Riverside Friday and Pomona markets.)

Only the first few customers managed to snare precious punnets of intensely sweet-tart Persian mulberries, offered by John and Beverly Fintikakis of Apple Valley and picked by their daughter, Anna. The family also sold very sweet watermelons; vleeta, or purple amaranth, a leafy green that can be boiled, steamed or sauteed; and red habanero peppers so hot they could start a forest fire.

From nearby Lucerne Valley, Raquel Weiser brought organic banana peppers, Russian Banana and Purple Peruvian potatoes, Roma tomatoes and Sunburst and Starship summer squash--sweeter, nuttier and less fibrous than pattypan squash, which they resemble.

Kris Olsen of Cahuilla Mountain Farm, from Aguanga, displayed an amazing array of organic heirloom produce: sweet, juicy Amish muskmelons; Collective Farm Woman honeydews (which originated in Ukraine) with brilliant gold rinds and firm, off-white flesh; five varieties of eggplants, including Rosa Bianca, so tender it melts in the mouth; Sweet Klari peppers, flat with thick walls and an odd cheesy texture; and gnarled red peppers they called “Jerry Nardello’s New Mexican frying peppers.”

Susie Behneman sold sweet, juicy Valencia oranges, tangy Marsh Pink grapefruit and buttery Hass avocados from Valley Center. Applegate Honey of Phelan had fine wildflower, orange blossom, buckwheat and avocado honeys--some of them gathered on the Rios Farm, where, Dave Applegate says, “The bears tear the heck out of the hives.”

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Big Bear Lake farmers market, 630 Bartlett Road, between Village Drive and Big Bear Boulevard; seasonal, April through October, Tuesdays 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m.