Clay Oven: Buffet Has Surprises and a Good Price

It’s Sunday, and there are so many crepes and omelets from which to choose. Here’s a sampler of Sunday Brunch destinations in Orange County, culled from recent stories. Other reviews can be accessed at https://www.calendarlive.com/go/discover.

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One of the best Sunday deals is at Praveen Bonsal’s Clay Oven, a small, arty place in a quiet suburban mall deep in the heart of Irvine. The kitchen is known for innovations such as mango corn soup, braised lamb shank with fresh herbs and crab idli (a South Indian steamed bread). It doesn’t look much like your typical Indian restaurant either. The atmosphere is understated: beige walls with Western art, very comfortable chairs draped in brown velour. In fact, only the pleasant Indian ragas playing softly in the background hint at the fact that you have come to an exotic place. That is, until you hit the buffet (an easy-to-digest $6.95).

The first thing you encounter on the buffet is a small, well-stocked salad bar. The ingredients--chopped lettuce, ripe tomatoes, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions and finely chopped cabbage--are good though unremarkable. What is special are the accompaniments: a fragrant mint chutney and a smoky, pungent tomato chutney, not to mention a soothing yogurt dressing (raita). From there, you proceed to a series of handsomely laid-out copper kettles, where the buffet dishes are presented. One is filled with aloo chat, lightly fried potato cakes flecked with bits of vegetable and spice. A second contains channa, stewed garbanzo beans and chopped tomato in a rich brown gravy redolent of cinnamon. A third kettle contains mixed sauteed cauliflower, broccoli and onions liberally sprinkled with a spice mixture dominated by the flavor of cumin seed. I’m not entirely fond of the buffet’s overcooked spinach, though the partial cloves of garlic visible in the puree give it a nice flavor.

There are two chicken dishes: Tandoori chicken is mildly spiced and partially blackened in the tandoor (clay oven) at searingly high heat. The other, which I much prefer, is chicken curry: pieces of chicken that taste as if they have been smoked before being added to the tomato-based curry sauce. There is basmati rice and lots of it, and one dessert is made from rice as well. Kheer, a rice pudding often made with raisins and almonds, is plain and creamy here.

Clay Oven, 15435 Jeffrey Road, Irvine. (949) 552-2851. Brunch is served daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.