A Capra Classic

“The whole thing obviously is a black-and-white movie,” Tom Capra says, describing his restaurant, Capra’s, in downtown Palm Springs. “I always think of it as a small New York City Italian restaurant in the ‘40s.” The sort of place where jazz musicians would hang out.

In the heart of Palm Springs’ busiest blocks, Capra’s is, in fact, a natural rendezvous point for singers, pianists and players from surrounding clubs and hotels. They come--and keep coming--in part because the restaurant serves up “lots of food for not a lot of money--and really good food,” as Capra says, but also because of the space’s nostalgia value.

Carefully decorated in black and white to create that ‘40s celluloid chic, the restaurant is also a homage to his father Frank Capra’s movies, with posters, stills and an Oscar statuette. There’s no trace of Tom’s own career in television news, during which he won an Emmy and a Peabody Award and executive-produced the “Today Show” from 1990-92, when he was hunted by the press for replacing anchor Deborah Norville with Katie Couric. Instead, the restaurant has brought Tom back to scenes from his childhood, when the Capra family were regular visitors to the desert. “We used to stay right across the street at the Desert Inn. We were little kids, and it was easy for kids to run around then. It was a great street. And once again it’s a great street--I really enjoy watching the renaissance of this place.”

It’s an eclectic city, and that particularly pleases him. He delights in the crowds that now fill Palm Canyon Drive on weekends and pack his restaurant--even when the kitchen begins to run out of food, as it did on a recent Saturday night. At lunchtime, the menu’s “Cast of Sandwiches” draws a crowd, particularly the meatball sandwich with marinara sauce and mozzarella dubbed “Mr. Smith,” after Jimmy Stewart’s character in the film “Mr. Smith Goes to Washington.” It’s a favorite with chef Judy Watkins, Capra’s sister-in-law, who adds, “And the Caesar salad is a hit with a bullet. It’s huge!” For dinner, the chicken and veal piccata are among the first to sell out, along with the house specialty, Kris Capra’s Pasta Fresca--relatively easy to prepare and particularly refreshing in the middle of a warm day in the desert.

All the recipes are either from Frank Capra himself or from Tom’s father-in-law, Joe Juliano. “Joe was a gourmet chef and a movie producer; he made 45 movies in Europe, most of them spaghetti Westerns. And my father was an excellent cook.” The restaurant has been open for just over a year and is now beginning to show a good profit. It’s third time lucky for Capra, who had two unsuccessful restaurant ventures in Malibu, the Bagelah Deli and Capra’s on PCH. “But,” Capra adds with a smile, “I still don’t think it’s as risky as the movie business.”

Kris Capra’s Pasta Fresca

Serves 4

6 tomatoes, diced

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

8 ounces fresh basil, chopped

11/2 cups olive oil

Salt to taste

1 pound penne pasta

1 8-ounce round of buffalo mozzarella, sliced

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In a large bowl, toss tomatoes, garlic, basil, olive oil and salt. Set aside and marinate for at least two hours. When time to serve, cook penne pasta until al dente. Drain well. Pour into tomato mixture, adjust salt to taste. Top with sliced mozzarella. Garnish with basil.