Winter Squash

In the right hands, the sweet, hard-skinned squashes of the season are wonderfully versatile.

Water Grill: Chef Michael Cimarusti serves oxtail braised with red wine and savoy cabbage on a layer of Tahitian squash--and, as if that weren’t enough, he lays rare slices of blue fin tuna on top. (Blue fin tuna with braised oxtail, $36.) Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 891-0900.

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the house: Squash lovers, get chef Scooter Kanfer’s seared duck breast with caramelized pumpkin and pretzel dumplings in pomegranate glaze or the roasted monkfish with acorn squash puree. There’s also a pumpkin pie pot de creme with ginger snaps on the Sunday night prix-fixe menu. (Seared duck breast, $26; monkfish with acorn squash, $24; prix-fixe menu, $24 to $30.) the house, 5750 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 462-4687.

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Vincente: For an appetizer, try the delicate butternut squash lasagna. At main dish time, roast duck comes with squash ravioli in butter and sage sauce. (Butternut squash lasagna, $10; rotisserie duck, $32.) Vincente, 11930 San Vincente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 207-0127.

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JiRaffe: During the fall and winter (usually on Wednesdays and Thursdays), you’ll find a pure, smooth butternut squash soup here, and for an unforgettable dessert, order the roasted butternut squash creme brulee, served in a tiny pumpkin with gingerbread on the side. (Butternut squash soup, $7.50; butternut squash creme brulee, $7.) JiRaffe, 502 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 917-6671.

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Paul’s Cafe: Fill your fork with a bit of roasted duck breast and a little buttery butternut squash, dip it in truffle Cabernet sauce and put it straight into your mouth. It all comes with wild mushroom ravioli. (Roasted duck breast, $16.95.) Paul’s Cafe, 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 789-3575; 18588 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, (818) 343-8588.

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Sage: Chef-owner Richard Mead bakes a small pumpkin with a cornbread pudding stuffing full apples, Gorgonzola, candied pecans, caramelized onions and andouille sausage. It accompanies grilled, sliced pork tenderloin with Port sauce and a pile of sauteed Swiss chard. (Grilled pork tenderloin and pumpkin stuffed cornbread pudding, $21.) Sage, Eastbluff Center, 2531 Eastbluff Drive, Newport Beach; (949) 718-9650.