1999 Leonildo Pieropan Soave Classico Superiore ‘Calvarino,’ Veneto, Italy

Soave, a straw-colored wine from near Verona in northeast Italy, has been making a quiet comeback. In the ‘70s and ‘80s, overproduction coupled with mediocre winemaking marred the reputation of this ancient winegrowing area. Then a few quality small producers got some attention for their thoughtfully made Soaves, and things have gradually been improving. Pieropan, which dates to 1860, consistently produces some of the best wines in the appellation, but this one, from a single vineyard, is something else again. Made from Garganega blended with 30% Trebbiano, this is Soave with some nuance. The scent is cool, green, fresh. In the mouth it’s luscious and full, a sensational wine for just about any white wine occasion.

Pieropan doesn’t produce a lot of wine from this particular vineyard, and what there is in Southern California will go fast. If you can’t find it, it’s worth keeping an eye out for Pieropan’s basic Soave.

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About $15. The Calvarino is available at the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (714) 650-8463; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; (800) 76-WINEX. The regular Classico Superiore is much more widely available. If you can’t find these wines, have your local wine shop contact the distributor, Empson Inc., (310) 863-0062.