DINING

In these capsules of recent reviews, dollar signs indicate the average price of a meal for one, without beverages.

$: less than $10

$$: up to $20

$$$: up to $30

$$$$: more than $30.

* BLUE AGAVE SOUTHWESTERN GRILL: A fun, slightly kitschy theme restaurant, but the food does not suffer. Good beef, such as carne asada adovada in blackened tomatillo sauce. Some thoughtful fusion dishes (kebabs with chipotle-spiked orange marmalade), some traditional Mexican (excellent carnitas) and 92 primo tequilas at the bar. Blue Agave Southwestern Grill, 18601 Yorba Linda Blvd., Yorba Linda. (714) 970-5095. Lunch and dinner daily . $$

* BLUEWATER GRILL: South Coast Plaza Village needed a good seafood restaurant, and now it has one. Chef Brian Hirsty stocks more than 15 fresh fish varieties daily and prepares them in a variety of imaginative ways. It’s best to stick with fish caught close to home and to order them blackened or served with the delicious teriyaki sauce. Accompanying the fish are good sides and a great list of wines by the glass. Go elsewhere for dessert. Bluewater Grill, South Coast Plaza Village, 1621 W. Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana. (714) 546-FISH (3474.) Lunch and dinner Mondays-Fridays, 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays, noon-9:30 p.m. $$. There is also a Bluewater Grill in Newport Beach at 630 Lido Park Drive. (949) 675-3474. $$

* CAFFE PIEMONTE: A family-owned place that serves excellent northern Italian food with a personal touch. Try the calamari saltati alla marinara, tagliolini alla Bolognese, pheasant ravioli and osso buco . Caffe Piemonte, 498 E. 1st St., Tustin. (714) 544-8072. Lunch Tuesdays-Fridays, dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays. $$

* CALIFORNIA CAFE: For a warm, energetic, contemporary-looking place with a bit of Asian influence on the menu, try California Cafe. For appetizers, try the chicken spring roll or the corn crisp calamari. For entrees, the crab-crusted halibut perfectly cooked and the “chicken under a brick” is redolent of garlic and rosemary. California Cafe, the Shops at Mission Viejo, (949) 347-9333. Lunch and dinner daily . $$

* CAPRICCIO: It doesn’t hold back on big flavors like garlic and capers. The massive pasta dishes are smothered with aromatic sauces and, with some dishes, savory shrimp, mussels and clams. A fine selection of daily seafood specials. Capriccio Italiano Ristorante. 25380 Marguerite Parkway, Mission Viejo. (949) 855-6866. Lunch Monday-Friday, dinner daily. $

* CEDAR CREEK INN: The Cedar Creek Inn in Brea may be less homey than the others, but it’s an appropriate setting for a serious, fine-dining approach to American food. There are classics like German pot roast and prime rib, mostly successful innovations like chicken breast stuffed with pecans and Brie--and, of course, devastating chocolate desserts. Cedar Creek Inn, 20 Pointe Drive, Brea. (714) 255-5600. Lunch and dinner daily. Also in Laguna Beach, San Juan Capistrano. $$

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* CHINA PALACE: China Palace has kept pace with changing tastes in its 20-year existence, while dozens, even hundreds of nearby restaurants have come and gone. This gaudy, tropical-themed place has a sushi bar and a Chinese kitchen that turns out dishes such as veal scaloppine with basil, fried soft-shell crab, Pekin duck and terrific fried calamari. China Palace, 2800 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach. (949) 631-8031. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. $$

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* COWBOY NEWPORT BEACH: The hot Cowboy seafood has been packing ‘em in from Day One. It has a hip, comforting American menu, plus a lively bar filled with the young and the restless of Newport Beach. The best dishes on the menu are wonderful fried jumbo shrimp, pan-roasted, cedar-plank salmon and the terrific Caesar. The place also has a nice wine list and, even better, no corkage fee. Cowboy Newport Beach, 850 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach. (949) 718-0187. Sundays, 4-11 p.m.; Mondays-Wednesdays, 5:30-10 p.m.; Thursdays-Saturdays, 5:30-11 p.m. $$$

* DARYA: For Persian cuisine in an elegant, fine-dining environment, South Coast Plaza Village has Darya. For entrees, try the seafood platter (especially the shrimp), the boneless chicken kebab, and the naderi kebab. Darya, South Coast Plaza Village, 1611 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 557-6600. Lunch and dinner daily . $$

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* EL CHOLO CANTINA: In its pleasant hacienda setting, El Cholo Cantina features a the full menu pared-down, CliffsNotes version of the El Cholo chain’s tried-and-true menu: cheese-heavy combo plates, nostalgia dishes like the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg--and, of course, those famous sweet, green-corn tamales (May through October only). El Cholo Cantina, 5465 Alton Parkway, Irvine. (949) 451-0044. Lunch and dinner daily. $

* EL FAROLITO: For 26 years, El Farolito has managed to please two kinds of Mexican food customers: those who want forceful dishes like birria and menudo and those who are looking for big margaritas and cheese-rich enchiladas and nachos. It’s a plain, friendly little place where even rice and beans are tasty. Check out the excellent steak milanesa. El Farolito, 201 S. Bradford Ave., Placentia. (714) 993-7880. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $

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* FLORENCE ITALIAN CUISINE: Elegant but casual, Florence Italian Cuisine offers a wide array of Italian favorites with an emphasis on seafood. Try the lobster-filled ravioli de l’aragosta, the filet mignon, the lasagna and the linguine vongole. For dessert, the tiramisu and the spumoni. Florence Italian Cuisine 14210 Culver Drive (Heritage Plaza), Irvine. (949) 857-8265. Lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sundays. $$

* GIORGIO’S OF CHICAGO: It re-creates classic Chicago dishes--a hot dog on a poppy seed bun with bright green relish, a messy beef sandwich with spicy Italian pickles, barbecued ribs--in the ambience of a Windy City pizza joint. And the best things here are the pizzas, made with Midwestern meats and cheeses. Giorgio’s of Chicago, 27000 Alicia Parkway, Laguna Niguel. (949) 448-9899. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

* IBIZA: After a tip of the hat to Spain, the jumping scene known as Ibiza mostly roves in the realm of Asian fusion cuisine. In fact, after the Flavors of Spain platter, go for Asian dishes such as seared ahi rolled in cracked pepper. And then order a cocktail and listen to the loud techno music. Ibiza, 209 Main St., Huntington Beach. (714) 536-7887. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$

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* INDIA COOK HOUSE: One of our more cheerful Indian restaurants, though it holds no real surprises. The best dishes here are the meats and bread cooked in the tandoor, or a cylindrical clay oven. But there are also good chutneys, vindaloos, a few nice vegetable dishes and fine homemade desserts. Don’t miss gulab jamun , gold-colored cheese balls served warm in syrup. India Cook House, 14130 Culver Drive, Irvine. (949) 857-4858. Daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m. $$

* JAVIER’S CANTINA: This restaurant bridges the gap between taqueria authenticity and the happy-hour chips-and-salsa scene. Familiar Mexican specialties are here, but it’s the seafood specials like brocheta del mar and the sweet, powerfully corn-flavored green-corn tamale that make dealing with Laguna Beach parking worth it. Javier’s Cantina & Grill, 480 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 494-1239. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

* LEFT AT ALBUQUERQUE: With its blues soundtrack, Southwestern decor and eclectic cooking style, this eatery is a bit of an odd duck. The menu features a variety of mesquite-grilled meats and fish, along with a huge list of premium tequilas. Try the griddled corn cake appetizer, the Asian-tasting grilled Dixon pork. Left at Albuquerque, 3309 Michelson Drive, Irvine. (949) 757-7600. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$

* LUCIANA’S: Luciana’s has been around since the early ‘80s, but this rustic European restaurant is now managed by a new generation. Chef Brett Young serves a combination of old Italian recipes and more modern spinoffs. Especially good are his fagiolini verdi, fried green beans, tomato bread soup ( zuppa campagnola ) and delicious double-thick grilled pork chop glazed with balsamic vinegar. Luciana’s, 24312 Del Prado, Dana Point. (949) 661-6500. Dinner only Sundays-Thursdays, 5-10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 5-11 p.m. $$$

* McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S: There are 40 or more kinds of fresh seafood on this menu, served in nearly 90 treatments. The inventive appetizer menu is highlighted by excellent crab-and-shrimp cakes, and the oyster selection is still one of the best around. The adjacent Pilsner Room brew pub serves an impressive list of microbrews. McCormick & Schmick’s, 2000 Main St., Irvine. (949) 756-0505. Lunch Mondays-Fridays, dinner daily. $$

* MITSUYOSHI: There’s a sushi bar here, but the appetizers are better, especially the baked pike and the potato porridge (yamakake) with chunks of tuna sashimi. Thin-cut pork cutlets (shoga-yaki) come in a tangy ginger sauce, and there’s a massive sukiyaki and a festive nabemono soup filled with meats, vegetables and noodles. Mitsuyoshi, 12033 Beach Blvd., Stanton. (714) 898-2156. Lunch and dinner Tuesdays-Sundays. $$

* MULBERRY STREET RISTORANTE: A cozy, welcoming setting for robust, old-school Italian food. It’s notable for dishes that achieve simple harmony through a deft balance of flavors. For appetizers, try the fried mozzarella and the steamed mussels. Exceptional entrees include the steak Mulberry and the fettuccine Caruso. Mulberry Street Ristorante, 114 W. Wilshire Ave., Fullerton. (714) 525-1056. Lunch Mondays-Saturdays; dinner served daily. Late night menu served Fridays and Saturdays until 12:45 a.m. $$

* OAK OVEN BARBECUE: The attraction at Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue is Santa Maria-style barbecued tri-tip. But you can also get chicken, pork loin and Portuguese sausage. The food comes on metal camping plates, and drinks, including wine, are served in Mason jars, but it’s 200 miles closer than Santa Maria. Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue, 21501 Brookhurst St., Huntington Beach. (714) 965-5200. Lunch and dinner Tuesdays-Sundays . $

* ON THE BORDER and OSCAR’S: Across the parking lot from each other at the Market Place, On the Border and Oscar’s represent chains new to our area. One is a Cal-Mex joint with great fajitas, lots of deep-fried appetizers and not much soul. The other is a family-run, kid-oriented operation with forgettable pizzas, good salads and what might be the best baked chicken on the planet. On the Border, 13772 Jamboree Road, Irvine. (714) 508-1060. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$. Oscar’s, 13786 Jamboree Road, Irvine. (714) 505-6070. Sunday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $$

* OSTERIA DABBASSO: Osteria Dabbasso, in the old Kachina space, is an art-filled Laguna basement serving some of the biggest Italian dishes in the county. Come for the salads, imaginative pastas and good meat courses. Osteria Dabbasso, 222 Forest Ave., Laguna Beach. (949) 494-0495. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. $$

* OYSTERS: “Asian-influenced California cuisine”--well, you can’t blame Oysters for wanting to distance itself from all the bad fusion cuisine around. But this spot, with its Chicago speak-easy ambience, could give fusion a good name with dishes like artichoke with tarragon sambal-aioli and Near East paella. Good oysters too, of course. Oysters, 2515 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 675-7411. Open for dinner daily. $$

* PANDA INN: A lot of well-rendered Mandarin favorites appear on the sprawling regular menu (and at the generous Sunday brunch) at Panda Inn. Be bearish about the “seasonal menu,” though; the dishes are more original, but this pleasant, airy place does better on basics like moo shu pork and tea-smoked duck. Panda Inn, Centerpointe Dr., La Palma. (714) 522-3328. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

* THE PERUVIAN GRILL: It specializes not so much in grilled food as in Peruvian seafood dishes, such as ceviche appetizers large enough for a small meal and pescado ajo macho, a grilled fish topped with scallops, shrimp, calamari and a spicy cilantro sauce. Empanadas, not listed on the menu, are also worth a try. The Peruvian Grill, 9606 Hamilton St., Huntington Beach. (714) 593-3883. Dinner Monday-Saturday. $$

* P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO: It serves Asian-inspired dishes in a high-voltage setting--and the dishes can be high-voltage with pepper themselves. Good appetizers are seared ahi and Chang’s spare ribs. The best entree is Paul’s catfish: tender chunks of fried catfish tossed with a garlicky black bean sauce. Desserts are outstanding. P.F. Chang’s China Bistro, Irvine Spectrum Center, 61 Fortune Drive. (949) 453-1211; Fashion Island, 1145 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 759-9007. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

* PLAZA GARIBALDI: The main attraction is the mariachi dinner show (Friday-Sunday). Though the limited show menu offers quality, such as pleasing shrimp dishes and a fine carnitas entree, a larger menu of standard Mexican dishes is served during the week. Plaza Garibaldi, 500 N. Brookhurst Ave., Anaheim. (714) 758-9014. Lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch (with mariachi). $$

* PLUMS: Once known only for breakfasts, sandwiches and salads, Plums Cafe now offers creative entrees, ranging from fried trout to tenderloin medallions topped by mushrooms. If it’s a sandwich you crave, the confetti meatloaf is rich with cumin flavor and the excellent lamb-burger comes alive with fresh oregano. Plums Cafe, 369 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa. (949) 722-7586. Breakfast and lunch daily. $

* POLISH RESTAURANT MR. SMOKE B.B.Q.: First it was a plain barbecue restaurant, but patrons liked the Polish dishes that sneaked on the menu so now it’s Polish Restaurant Mr. Smoke B.B.Q. So enjoy the potato pancakes, the sweet-sour sauerkraut, the veal cordon bleu- like cutlet Sobieski--and once in a while, have some of that barbecue too. Polish Restaurant Mr. Smoke B.B.Q., 2610 W. La Palma Ave., Anaheim. (714) 827-6251. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

* THE QUIET WOMAN: The Quiet Woman leads a sedate life, but it is one of the area’s most consistently good dining spots. Entrees, mostly cooked on a mesquite grill, include Angus beef steaks, fresh fish and a terrific rack of lamb. There are good salads, excellent homemade soups and fine desserts too. Don’t miss the homemade pumpkin pie in season and the fudgy Toll House pie all year. The Quiet Woman, 3224 Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 640-7440. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. $$$

* THE RITZ: Hans Prager’s ornately decorated restaurant, the Ritz, remains a bastion of Continental cuisine after more than two decades at Fashion Island. A well-dressed Newport crowd still turns out for retro faves such as lobster bisque and veal Oscar. Now there is a lovely outdoor garden area open during lunch and dinner. The Ritz, 880 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (949) 720-1800. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Monday-Thursday, 6-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30-11 p.m. $$$

* ROMA D’ITALIA: Tustin’s busy Roma D’Italia is an old-fashioned checked-tablecloth pizzeria/restaurant specializing in dishes with big, rich flavors, such as chicken d’Italia, which includes eggplant, ham, tomatoes, provolone and mushroom sauce. For something lighter, try the mixed seafood platter in a flavorful garlic white wine sauce. Roma D’Italia, 611 El Camino Real, Tustin. (714) 544-0273. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

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* ROYAL KHYBER: In its new location, Royal Khyber is aiming to be O.C.’s top Indian restaurant, and it has all the tools--a gorgeous dining room, an innovative menu and the talents of chef Arun Puri in the kitchen. Some of the dishes need more oomph, but certainly not the terrific shrimp samosa, killer warm eggplant salad or wonderful lamb shank in spicy broth. Royal Khyber, Fine Indian Cuisine, 1621 W. Sunflower Ave., South Coast Plaza Village, Santa Ana. (714) 436-1010. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. $$$

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* TANGATA: Joachim Splichal’s museum-located restaurant is worth going to even if you aren’t interested in art. At Tangata, the famous chef is playing with Mexican themes as well as brunch ideas like a crab Benedict and light, “tall food” French toast. And Tangata can give you fast service when you need it. Tangata, Bowers Museum of Cultural Art, 2002 N. Main St., Santa Ana. (714) 550-0906. Open for lunch daily. $$

* TANGERINE GRILL: Though right across the street from Disneyland, Tangerine Grill is actually a decent California Cuisine restaurant. This means Italian touches like fresh mozzarella and an imported tangerine sorbetto, but it also grills a good Santa Maria-style strip steak and a pork chop in a successful cranberry Bourbon sauce. Tangerine Grill and Patio, 1030 W. Katella Ave., Anaheim, (714) 772-1186. lunch, breakfast and dinner daily. $$$

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* TAPS: Taps is one of the most ambitious brew pub/restaurants ever to open in northeast O.C. It’s a 14,000-square-foot establishment featuring gleaming copper fermentation tanks, a centrally located oyster bar and a large, hangar-like dining room. Fresh seafoods, good side dishes and the dozen-plus house beers are best bets. Taps, 101 E. Imperial Highway, Brea. (714) 257-0101. Daily, 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. $$$

* THANH MY: The big deal at Thanh My, one of Little Saigon’s oldest Vietnamese restaurants, is bo 7 mon, beef served in seven courses such as salad, soup, rice paper wrap and meatloaf. The hot pots, cooked at your table, are also good, though messy to eat. Late groovers, take note--Thanh My stays open till 1:30 a.m. Thanh My, 9553 Bolsa Ave., Westminster. (714) 531-9540. Lunch and dinner daily . $

* TOMMY BAHAMA’S: The Caribbean meets Walt Disney at Tommy Bahama’s Tropical Cafe, a spiffy new restaurant with an attached clothing store. The pricey menu includes conch fritters, mango shrimp salad and other island-inspired fare. There is a lively bar scene, a delightful outdoor patio and a live steel band every evening. Tommy Bahama’s Tropical Cafe, 854 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach. (949) 760-8686. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$$

* WEI’S: Wei’s is O.C.’s best Chinese restaurant at the moment, a boxy place that serves the fiery cuisine of China’s Sichuan province and much more. Look to the short house specialties section to snare the dishes that all these Chinese families are eating. The fabulous stewed assorted pork has a meatball, Chinese bacon, chicken feet and cooked spinach. And try the boiled salty duck, any kung pao dish and sizzling rice soup. Wei’s, 17046 Magnolia St., Fountain Valley. (714) 842-9778. Lunch Tuesday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Tuesday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m.; Sunday, 4:30-9 p.m. $$