Stitching Together a Week of Promise

Eric Martin and Diane Moss-Martin promised an exploration of the avant-garde, but their mixed references to Japan’s Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe deflated any hopes that the duo have a unique vision. Their mostly black, 25-piece collection displayed variations on pleats. The folds crossed over shirt fronts, decorated skirt hems and hung like an apron over pants.

But the pair purposely undermine their expert tailoring by leaving hems ragged, fabrics wrinkled and edges fashionably raw. Perhaps the faux moth holes have a purpose: Who’s to mind a fresh cigarette burn after a night of clubbing?

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V.H-C.