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Nice Try, Chef Says, but Test Burger Doesn’t Cut the Mustard

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Thanks for the nice mention (“Introducing the Glam Burger,” Aug. 21). The recipe by your test kitchen made me laugh. Not because it was ridiculous, but because you would try to re-create it. I’m flattered. As for the recipe you published, a good but somewhat hasty attempt. Ketchup and liquid smoke? No way!

I’m sure your version was great, however the one angle of approach missing is technique. The secrets of my compote are timing and patience during the cooking process. My experience in top kitchens showed me the importance of extracting intense flavors from basic ingredients. I created my burger mindful of my lessons. I think a lot of upper-echelon chefs are letting their guard down and having some fun. Utilizing a chef’s talents on basic foods is something I’m happy to see happening.

Having said this, I would have loved trying your version. If you really want the details, I’ll tell you someday over a beer.

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SANG YOON

Father’s Office, Santa Monica

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A $29 hamburger! As they say ... a sucker is born every day ... a fool and his money soon part ... some people have more dollars than sense.

LAURIE WILCOX

Palm Desert

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Enticed by the description of the deconstruction of the Office Burger, I had to rush home and try it. I followed the directions to a “T” and found it to be ... strange-tasting. The beef was delicious but the topping was just weird. I guess one has a boatload of expectations to overcome when it comes to experimenting with that old standby, and I’m reminded of a quote by James Beard (I think), who said, “Anyone who doesn’t think the best burgers are to be found in his own hometown is a ninny.” I think Pie n’ Burger in Pasadena makes the best cheeseburger in the world!

JAN PINGLETON

Pasadena

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The burgers mentioned are a monument to gluttony. Have you ever tried to eat one of these monstrosities? The meat is at least an inch thick ... so you have a construction at least 5 inches high. What are they thinking? The last time I was served one of these things I proceeded to dismantle the contents and reorganize the pieces on my plate so that I could use a knife and fork. When will restaurant owners serve food that can be eaten in polite company without having it all run down your face?

JIM KERR

Laguna Beach

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