Striped Bass on the Menu

* This East Coast favorite is finding its way onto a lot of menus.

Geoffrey’s: Gaze out over the Pacific while you enjoy bass in a pistachio crust with lemon grass beurre blanc and a side of asparagus. (Sicilian pistachio-encrusted branzino, $26.) Geoffrey’s, 27400 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu, (310) 457-1519.

The House: This casual place serves pan-roasted bass in a shallot butter jus, with tiny fingerling potatoes, French radishes and cucumber. The flavors dance on your tongue. (Striped bass, $21.) The House, 5750 Melrose Ave., L.A., (323) 462-4687.

Oysters: Chef Scott Brandon serves striped bass on special in various ways, always with its skin crisped. It may come on preserved lemon polenta with sauteed tatsoi (a dark green bok choy), roasted plum tomatoes and spicy harissa beurre blanc, or it may be marinated with Thai basil, grilled over oak and served with wilted red spinach, roasted asparagus, pancetta and red Bliss potato salad with a lemon-ginger vinaigrette. (Striped bass, $24.) Oysters, 2515 E. Pacific Coast Highway, Corona del Mar, (949) 675-7411.

Morton’s: At lunch, order the grilled striped bass served with baby grilled zucchini and Yukon Gold mashed potatoes. It comes with a tangy citrus vinaigrette made with blood oranges and grapefruit. (Grilled striped bass, $19.) Morton’s, 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (310) 276-5205.

Il Sole: This sunny Italian spot offers wild striped bass from Virginia or Maine when it’s available. It’s done very simply: The filet (skin on) is sauteed in olive oil with rosemary and cracked pepper and served with extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice and sea salt. On the side come sauteed rapini, baby carrots or roasted potatoes. (Striped bass, $24.) Il Sole, 8741 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 657-1182.

The Lobster: When wild striped bass is available, chef Allyson Thurber cooks it with fresh porcini mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, roasted garlic cloves, shallots, veal stock, Marsala and a few fresh sage leaves. The hearty fish and earthy porcini go beautifully together. (Wild striped bass, $24.) The Lobster, 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 458-9294.