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Soul Food With a Senegalese Twist at Bistro 4040

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

African-American-Californian Restaurant: A West African-born man who loves to cook soul food opened a place called Bistro 4040 about three months ago in Baldwin Hills. He’s chef Alle Thiam (pronounced Ali Tom). You might recognize him from Morton’s in West Hollywood, where he worked as executive chef from 1995-98, or Kass Bah in West Hollywood, where he played sous chef to his pal Gerry Garvin.

Thiam, from Senegal, has been working most recently as a personal chef and caterer, but he’s always wanted his own place, which he lovingly refers to as “my little joint on King Boulevard.” The little joint has 13 tables inside, seating about 30. Every night it’s open, the restaurant features dishes “From the Land of America” and dishes “From the Land of Africa.”

Some African specialties might be (depending on the night) chaabu jin, a Senegalese seafood stew ($9.95); chew yap, a tomato-based oxtail stew ($8.95); or yassa ginaar, marinated chicken grilled in lemon mustard sauce ($8.95). The appetizer-sized pastels (Senegalese fried fish patties) with spicy tomato chutney are available every day ($3.95). American offerings include “Big Mama” fried chicken ($7.95); blackened turkey meatloaf ($7.95); Caesar salad ($3.95); and sweet-potato creme brulee ($3). Even though it’s just a little place, Thiam likes to run specials every night and has a small private room for parties. Bistro 4040 is open Tuesdays through Saturdays for lunch and dinner and for brunch on Sundays from 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

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* Bistro 4040, 4040 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., at Hillcrest, Baldwin Hills, (323) 290-0988.

More American: While we’re on the subject of American food, Robin’s Woodfire BBQ & Grill in Pasadena lets you chow down as much as humanly possible almost every night. On Monday, Tuesday and Thursday nights the all-you-can-eat deals revolve around barbecue. The dishes (like barbecued chicken, ribs and hot links) run $13.95. On Wednesdays and Fridays, it’s fish and chips at $8.95. On Sundays, there’s a “garbage can” combo for $16.95 served in a miniature version of said can.

* Robin’s Woodfire BBQ & Grill, 395 N. Rosemead Blvd., Pasadena, (626) 351-8885.

Big Gamble: If you don’t mind terrible odds, try this free gambling opportunity. Le Meridien hotel is giving away a trip to Le Meridien Nirwana resort in Bali to the person who correctly predicts all the Oscar winners. If more than one person guesses all 24 categories correctly (yeah, right), the winner will be chosen by drawing. If no one guesses correctly, the highest-scoring ballot gets the trip. Second prize is dinner for two in Le Festival restaurant at Le Meridien in L.A. Third prize is Petrossian caviar service in Cafe Noir, also at the hotel. Ballots are available in Cafe Noir until March 24 at noon. You can enter as often as once a day.

* Le Meridien, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A.; (310) 247-0400.

Big Fish: All of the Pinot restaurants in the Patina Group are overdosing on seafood from March 18-24 at dinnertime. Cafe Pinot in downtown L.A., Pinot Bistro in Studio City, Pinot Hollywood, Pinot Provence in Costa Mesa and Pinot Blanc in Napa Valley each will offer four cold seafood appetizers, four warm seafood appetizers and eight seafood entrees. Alaska Seafood is sponsoring the event.

Each restaurant has its own spin on the ingredients being used, but expect to see oysters on the half-shell ($9), stone crab claws or cakes ($9), day boat scallops ($9), skate wing ($8), sturgeon ($21 to $23), sea bream ($17.50) and loup de mer ($23).

* Cafe Pinot, 700 W. 5th St., L.A.; (213) 239-6500. Pinot Bistro, 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 990-0500. Pinot Hollywood, 1448 N. Gower St., L.A.; (323) 461-8800. Pinot Provence, 686 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa; (714) 444-5900. Pinot Blanc, 641 Main St., St. Helena, Napa Valley; (707) 963-6191.

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Wine, Then Food, Then More Food: Mako restaurant and the Wine House are putting on a wine tasting featuring Melville Vineyards & Winery in Santa Barbara County, March 12, 6-8 p.m. Some of the estate’s Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs and Syrahs will be tasted with small bites of food. The price is $30. Tasters who want to stay and eat more can partake of a three-course meal for $35 (a bargain at Mako’s prices).

* Mako, 225 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 288-8338.

Slowing It Down: The Slow Food movement is having a leisurely dinner March 14 at Alto Palato in L.A. Slow Food members and chefs Santo Lipani and actor-cookbook author Vincent Schiavelli will cook a six-course dinner of Sicilian food designed to make you want to linger over meals forever more.

Dinner begins with Sicilian rice balls, moves on to sweet and sour meatballs, then two salads (oranges and red onion, cantaloupe and eggplant), then ziti with sausage and Pernod. As for the main course, that’s leg of lamb. The tab for this slow evening (begins at 7 p.m.) is $65.

For more information on the Slow Food movement, visit www.slowfood.com.

* Alto Palato, 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A.; (310) 657-9271.

Passover Dinners: Chez Melange is cooking up some Passover dishes for those who want to dine out on March 27 and/or March 28. The menu is a la carte, with items priced separately (although prices aren’t set yet). Alongside classic Jewish specials like matzo ball soup, gefilte fish, potato latkes, chopped chicken liver, braised lamb shanks and beef brisket, pan-seared whitefish and pan-roasted halibut will be available. Chez Melange, Palos Verdes Inn, 1716 Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach, (310) 540-1222....

Spago is hosting a Seder dinner on March 28 at 6 p.m. Rabbi Arnie Rachlis and Cantor Ruti Braier will preside. You’ll be eating gefilte fish, chicken soup with matzo balls, sauteed foie gras with a latke, Moroccan lamb with almonds and apricots, white salmon and macaroons. The price is $175 for adults; $80 for children. Proceeds benefit Mazon, a Jewish hunger-fighting organization. Spago, 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 385-0880.

Reach Angela Pettera at (310) 358-7647 or pettera@prodigy.net

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