BabyBroccoli

These delicate stalks topped with green buds and tiny yellow flowers are sweet and subtle.

Jar: Ask your waiter whether the baby broccoli is available. It’s blanched in boiling water, then fried in olive oil with shallots, sea salt and pepper. This bright pile of greenswholesome, crisp and delicious. (Baby broccoli, $6.) Jar, 8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 655-6566.

Dexter’s: Chef-owner Scott Savoy adds baby broccoli to his vegan Southwestern lasagna, which appeals even to meat-eaters. The broccoli is stir-fried in peanut oil along with eggplant, asparagus tips, sweet peppers and shiitake mushrooms, plus a little ginger, garlic, soy sauce and brown sugar. Flour tortillas are layered with this filling, tofu pepper Jack and a tomatillo chipotle sauce and briefly baked. (Stir-fried, veggie-style Southwestern lasagna, $18.) Dexter’s, 2892 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, (949) 497-8912.

Angeli Caffe: Here sprouted baby broccoli is the vegetable of the month; you find it on the menu as verdura al modo nostro. It’s sauteed in olive oil and garlic, sprinkled with red pepper flakes and served with a wedge of lemon. This side dish accompanies all entrees, along with the rosemary roasted potatoes and you can also order it by itself. (Verdura al modo nostro, $4.50.) Angeli Caffe, 7274 Melrose Ave., L.A., (323) 936-9086.

Cafe Pinot: How about sliced Peking duck breast with grapes, chestnuts, baby broccoli and a Meyer lemon sauce? Or fettuccine tossed with a rich, aromatic rabbit sauce made with dried tomatoes, baby broccoli and Riesling? (Peking duck with Meyer lemon sauce, $16.50 lunch/$21.95 dinner; fettuccine with rabbit, $14 lunch/$16 dinner.) Cafe Pinot, 700 W. 5th St., L.A., (213) 239-6500.

Mimosa: Chef Jean-Pierre Bosc whips up a delicate special appetizer using steamed baby broccoli, chopped eggs, tarragon, chives and Italian parsley. When it’s assembled, he puts a little melted butter on top. (Baby broccoli a la flamande, $8.) Mimosa, 8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 655-9178.

Ammo: It doesn’t come any simpler than here: sauteed in olive oil till slightly tender and sprinkled with red pepper flakes. (Sauteed baby broccoli, $5.) Ammo, 1155 N. Highland Ave., L.A., (323) 871-2666.