Mike Bearzi, 49; a Veteran Climber of the Himalayas

Veteran Himalayan climber Mike Bearzi has died after falling during a climb in Tibet. He was 49.

Bearzi, who lived in Boulder, Colo., and made his living as a master carpenter, fell May 9 while attempting to climb the northeast face of Gyachung Kang, which at 26,085 feet is the world’s 15th-highest mountain.

Climbing partner Bruce Miller told Bearzi’s family that Bearzi was descending across a rocky snow slope late in the day when he fell about 1,600 feet.

Miller, who spotted the body the next day, decided it would be too dangerous to try to retrieve it, Bearzi’s brother James, of Santa Fe, N.M., said Friday.

Bearzi’s family learned of the fall about four days later when Miller reached the Mt. Everest base camp and called on a satellite phone.

Mike Bearzi and Miller had attempted the climb without extra oxygen or established camps, and were accompanied only by a cook and a porter.

“Mike was one of the proponents of the clean alpine style, which is quieter, lighter and doesn’t use a lot of support,” his brother said. “Philosophically, he was uncomfortable with laying siege to the mountain.”

Bearzi tried to ascend Everest three times, including two alpine-style attempts, but was stopped each time by bad weather during monsoon season.

A lifelong Colorado resident, he grew up in Colorado Springs and climbed in the mountains and canyons around Cheyenne Mountain and Pikes Peak.

He invented the widely used “M” system for ranking the difficulty of mixed alpine climbs containing rock, snow and ice.

In addition to his brother James, Bearzi is survived by his wife, Renee St. Aubin; his parents, John and Joan Bearzi of Colorado Springs; another brother, Peter of Sisters, Ore.; and a sister, Judi Johansen of Portland, Ore.