Finding refuge in a big city

The place

Balboa, a grand old-fashioned city park in the tradition of Central Park and Golden Gate, turns into San Diego’s collective backyard each weekend. Green lawns fill with sunbathers, hipsters, gay couples, seniors, packs of high schoolers, and families with babies in strollers. The people-watching is divine; there’s always someone getting married or some silly sideshow going on from Tarot card readers to puppet shows. Take a peek inside any of a number of museums or just wander around the magnificent Spanish colonial buildings left over from the 1915-16 Panama-California Exposition, a festival celebrating San Diego and the 1914 opening of the Panama Canal.

Where to find it

Downtown, bounded on the east and west by 28 Street and 6th Avenue, and on the north and south by Upas Street and Russ Boulevard.

The main drag

Enter on Laurel Street, which turns into El Prado.

Where to hang out

Just walking into the Museum of Art, with its large rotunda and indoor fountain, is inspiring. The fun and funky “Axis Mexico: Common Objects and Cosmopolitan Actions” show continues through March 9 with paintings, videos and installations by contemporary Mexican artists. For airheads, there’s the Aerospace Museum with more than 65 air- and spacecraft on display. Those who love plants can take a quiet stroll in the Japanese Friendship Garden with its Zen spaces, Wisteria Arbor and koi pond, or pop into the conservatory filled with exotic plants. Stay for a show. “Imaginary Friends,” a play by Nora Ephron with music by Marvin Hamlisch, through Nov. 3 at the Old Globe Theatre.

Tokyo to Provence

There are plenty of concession stands selling everything from hot dogs to ice cream bars. But for an inexpensive lunch, try the Tea Pavilion for Japanese soups, noodles, rice bowls and scores of green, white, black and herbal teas. The Prado offers Mexican food, seafood, sandwiches, pasta and a full bar . For an elegant, upscale dinner, Laurel Restaurant has an accent on flavors from southern France and wines to match. And save room for Extraordinary Desserts: with treats that are a feast for the eyes as well, like the tortes, decked out with roses, ribbons and orchids. Organic coffees and Mariage Freres teas accompany the sweets.

Don’t miss ...

The Spreckels Organ Pavilion, where you can hear free concerts on the king of instruments without going to church. No skating rink ditties here but bona fide classical favorites by Bach, Buxtehude and other longhaired composers.

Skip-able

The zoo. It’ll still be there if you want to come back.

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Balboa Park

1. Extraordinary Desserts, 2929 5th Ave. (619) 294-7001.

2. Laurel Restaurant & Bar, 505 Laurel St. (619) 239-2222.

3. The Globe Theatres, 1363 Old Globe Way. (619) 231-1941.

4. San Diego Museum of Art, 1450 El Prado. (619) 232-7931.

5. The Prado, 1549 El Prado. (619) 557-9441.

6. Museum of Photographic Arts, 1649 El Prado. (619) 238-7559.

7. Tea Pavilion, 2215 Pan American Way. (619) 231-0470.

8. Japanese Friendship Garden, 2215 Pan American Way. (619) 232-2780.

9. Aerospace Museum, 2001 Pan American Plaza. (619) 234-8291.