Carrows cares for Boulez

adorable little Ojai with its funky, alfresco Libbey Bowl and Shangri-La mind-set -- recently felt like the most musically sophisticated place in America.

Pierre Boulez, who is one of France’s most important cultural figures these days, oversaw a spectacular survey of his music as part of last week’s Ojai Festival, which concluded with the 78-year-old composer conducting his sonically mesmerizing and virtuosically intricate 40-minute “Sur Incises.”

Then came time to eat, and suddenly Ojai did not seem quite so sophisticated. The concert wasn’t over until nearly 11:30 p.m., but one ambitious new restaurant had promised to keep its kitchen open late. It didn’t; when the hungry maestro and his party arrived, they found it closed.

That left Carrows.

According to reports, Boulez, who is accustomed to royal treatment from Paris’ finest restaurants, was perfectly content with the chicken strips. In fact, he was more than content, because he happened to get the American star treatment. Apparently everyone in the chain coffee shop recognized him and one by one approached his table for an autograph.

Someone once said Ojai has its feet so high in the clouds that heaven is but a local phone call away. Even at Carrows, where the cuisine may not be haute, the diners are certainly elevated.

-- Mark Swed