1999 Piaggia Carmignano ‘Riserva’

In this hilly area west of Florence, winemakers have been including a little Cabernet in the same basic Sangiovese-

dominated blend as Chianti since at least the 18th century. That’s what gives Carmignano a darker tone than Chianti or a pure Sangiovese. And that’s why it’s one of the four great denominazioni of Tuscany.

Italian wine aficionados have made Piaggia’s something of a cult wine. The 1999 riserva is, hands down, the best in the Carmignano appellation. It’s an intense, opaque red with tremendous concentration and weight, yet its ripe tannins give it the texture of velvet. Though it’s drinking well now, it’s still a bit closed; it will surely benefit from some bottle age.

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Region: Tuscany

Price: About $35

Style: Velvety and concentrated

Food it goes with: pasta e fagioli, pasta with ragu, pork roast, grilled chops

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.