Upstairs, downstairs

Conventional wisdom says that L.A. diners like to see and be seen, so you’d think the upstairs seating areas in several bi-level restaurants would be too far from the spotlight to be popular. But it’s turning out that the upper levels in some spots are prime territory.

At Pizzicotto, the popular Brentwood trattoria, the small room upstairs is the spot of choice for many regulars, who tend to prefer it to the cramped, noisy main room downstairs.

“If you have some people who want privacy,” says co-owner Luciana Momesso, “the upstairs is just perfect.... Most of the celebrities prefer upstairs.”

The second floor is also the most requested at Mastro’s Steakhouse in Beverly Hills, but for exactly the opposite reason. Upstairs at Mastro’s, there’s live music and the energy level is higher.

“Downstairs is the Siberia of the joint,” is the way one patron puts it.

“About 65% of our requests are for upstairs,” says Mastro’s manager Jin Yu. Fortunately, he says, this balances out with the many “high-profile business diners and regulars who require privacy who always sit downstairs.”

Morels French Steakhouse & Bistro at the Grove is really two distinct eateries in one: a casual bistro on the ground floor and a sophisticated steak place upstairs. Passersby who wander in not knowing the score are shown menus and coached by hosts who explain the seating, but savvy patrons can be seated on the balcony upstairs at lunch on weekends (but for bistro, not steakhouse fare).

Still, at some two-story dining rooms, downstairs rules.

At Enoteca Drago, maitre d’ Stefano Ongaro sometimes meets resistance when he walks diners toward the staircase.

“If you have the ability to seat them downstairs, that’s when you do that,” he says. “Otherwise you say, ‘You have to give me a few more minutes.’ ”

At Rocca, downstairs is also the place to be. According to manager Miguel Garza, “Some people refuse to walk upstairs. I’ve had people get livid and say, ‘I don’t walk upstairs for anybody.’ ”

Ah, the ups and downs of dining in L.A.

Leslee Komaiko

*

Small bites

* Hillmont, the Eastside steakhouse, closed earlier this month. However, owner Steve Arroyo plans to open a branch of his popular Beverly Boulevard tapas bar, Cobras & Matadors, in the space May 10.

In addition to tapas, Arroyo promises the menu at the new location (which will most likely also be called Cobras & Matadors) will feature “at least one great cut of steak for the people who fell in love with Hillmont.” And unlike the original, this one will serve beer and wine, including “about 50 Spanish wines by the glass,” says Arroyo.

Cobras & Matadors Hollywood, 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 669-3922.

* In the face of continuing delays in obtaining a beer and wine license for Amuse Cafe in Venice, chef-owners Brooke Williamson and Nick Roberts have decided to revamp their approach. The restaurant is now open daily for breakfast and lunch, while dinner is served Friday and Saturday nights only.

As for rumors that the two are working on a second project, Williamson confirms, “We are looking at another location [on the Westside]. It’s most likely due to open up in the next six months and will focus more on dinner and a bar scene.”

Amuse Cafe, 796 Main St., Venice, (310) 450-1956.

* Chef Larry Nicola of Nic’s in Beverly Hills is overhauling the menu at Tamayo Restaurant, an Eastside institution (named for painter Rufino Tamayo). Nicola, who grew up just a mile from the restaurant, is introducing regional Mexican dishes such as sauteed zucchini flowers stuffed with queso Oaxaca.

Tamayo Restaurant, 5300 E. Olympic Blvd., East Los Angeles, (323) 260-4700.