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Casual Italian

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Angelenos adore their tacos and sushi, but when we can’t decide where to eat, we often fall back on that reliable neighborhood Italian place. Here are five favorites.

Picolo Cipriani

Gracious service and excellent versions of such classics as tomato and bufala mozzarella salad (made with cheese flown in from Naples) are the hallmarks of this little place, which opened in April. Chef Antonio Mure has a deft hand with pasta. Try earthy tortelli filled with potatoes and figs or tagliatelle in lamb ragu.

* Antipasti, salads $7.75 to $13.75; pasta $10.75 to $17.95; secondi $16.75 to $24.75. 5 Dudley Ave., Venice; (310) 314-3222.

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Cafe Veneto

The offshoot of neighboring Locanda Veneta is done up in dark woods accented by a snappy striped banquette. It opened just a few months ago but already feels nicely broken in. Pizza is the specialty and we’re partial to the buongiorno with fresh mozzarella, prosciutto and basil.

* Salads, small plates $6.50 to $10.95; pizza $8.50 to $12. 8636 W. 3rd St., L.A.; (310) 273-3605.

Trattoria Tre Venezie

This serene charmer looks toward Northeastern Italy, which means a menu of seldom-seen dishes, including dreamy casunziei (half-moon poppy seed ravioli stuffed with beets and fresh ricotta, finished with brown butter and house-smoked ricotta). Save room for dessert. The tiramisu is the best in the city.

Preludio $8.50 to $18; secondo acto $16 to $31. 119 W. Green St., Pasadena; (626) 795-4455.

Buona Sera

They’re still working out some service kinks at this spot, opened by three Drago veterans earlier this year. But the insalata di gamberi with juicy garlicky shrimp, endive and asparagus is the perfect starter for a summer night. Other good choices include spaghetti alla pescatora in a kicky tomato sauce, or a simple pizza.

* Antipasti $9 to $16; pasta, pizzas $12 to $16; secondi $21 to $27. 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach; (310) 543-2277.

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Panzanella

Panzanella raised the bar on Ventura Boulevard, especially since chef Davide Moreno took the helm a few weeks ago. The panzanella is especially good now, with beautiful heirloom tomatoes. Follow that with a bowl of risotto a la parmigiana topped with fluffy meatballs. (Note: The restaurant is in the midst of a makeover.)

* Antipasti $9 to $16; piatto forte $23 to $30. 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 784-4400.

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