Pigskin and Other Delicacies

One measure of how far tailgating has come is that it rarely involves an actual tailgate these days. Even those fans who drive trucks to the game typically set up folding picnic tables or other buffet surfaces, the better to accommodate the entrees, salads, snacks, booze and bubble water necessary to prepare the modern-day enthusiast for 60 minutes of football.

Although some features remain constant across every tailgating venue in America--bottled beer, sausages, licensed apparel costing half a paycheck--no two experiences are exactly alike. Regional culinary traditions (if you can characterize Green Bay’s Lambeau Field bratwurst thusly) are shaped by the demographics of a team’s fans and the images they carefully cultivate. Here in California, team rivalries are neatly delineated by tailgaters. That makes sense for a state in which Northern versus Southern, urban versus rural and logger versus tree-sitter are dwarfed only by Bruin versus Trojan and Raider versus 49er.

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Tailgate recipes

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Ethel Cullom’s Stuffed Sandwiches

Serves 8

1 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened

1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts

1/4 cup finely chopped green onion

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1 8-inch round loaf of sheepherder bread

3 tablespoons butter, softened

3/4 pound thinly sliced ham

1/4 pound baby spinach (about 6 cups loosely packed)

1/2 pound sliced Swiss cheese

1/2 cup alfalfa sprouts

Blend together the cream cheese, walnuts, green onion and garlic powder. Set aside. With a serrated knife, slice off top of bread about one-third of the way down. Set top slice aside. Cut out the center of the loaf to within half an inch of the sides and bottom, creating a shell. Butter the cavity and underside of the top slice. Line the cavity with ham, letting the slices overlap the edge of the crust. Top with half the spinach, then half the Swiss cheese. Spread the cream cheese mixture over the Swiss cheese layer. Top with sprouts, then the remaining Swiss cheese and spinach. Fold the ends of the ham slices over the spinach to cover. Put the top slice on the loaf to close. Place stuffed loaf on large sheet of foil. Bring the sides of the foil up over the loaf and fold down to seal tightly. Fold ends and crimp to seal. Chill several hours or overnight to blend the flavors. To serve, remove foil and slice into 8 wedges with a serrated knife.

Ethel Cullom has missed one Bruin home game since graduating in 1966.

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Jeff Oto’s Toll House Cookies

Makes about 17 3-inch-diameter cookies

1/4 pound butter

1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 egg

3/4 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup flour, plus 2 tablespoons

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

1 cup (6 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and grease the cookie sheets. Cream the butter and then gradually add the brown and white sugars, beating until light and smooth. Beat in the egg and vanilla. Set aside. In another bowl, mix the flour, salt and baking soda together with a whisk and add to the sugar mixture, blending well. Stir in the nuts and chocolate chips. Using a 2-inch-diameter scoop, drop the dough onto the cookie sheets, making sure the cookies are about 2 inches apart. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Jeff Oto graduated from Troy in 1988. He can name almost every USC assistant football coach for the last 30 years.

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Grilled Asparagus

Serves 4

1 bunch of asparagus (asparagus should be about 1/2 inch in diameter)

Olive oil

Garli Garni or other garlic seasoning

Trim the white ends of the asparagus, then wash and dry. Place in a 1-gallon Ziploc bag, lightly drizzle with olive oil and season with Garli Garni or other garlic seasoning. Remove from the bag and place on the grill over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and grill for another 4 to 5 minutes, until tender.

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Howard Hall’s Barbecued Lobster Tails

1 8-ounce Australian lobster tail per person

Butter

Garli Garni or other garlic seasoning

Thoroughly wash the tails (wear gloves because the tails have tiny spines). Using kitchen shears, cut off and remove the membrane from the underbelly. Place the tails in a baking pan and drizzle each with 1 to 2 tablespoons butter and Garli Garni or other garlic seasoning. Store in refrigerator until ready to cook. Place the tails (shell side down) on the grill over medium heat. Cook until they start to turn white, about 13 minutes. Turn the tails over and cook for 5 more minutes. Turn the tails over again (shell side down). Baste each tail with 1 to 2 tablespoons butter and garlic. Cook until the tails are firm and white, about 1 more minute. Remove from the grill. Place a big spoon between the shell and tail and slide it down the shell. Remove each tail from its shell (if it doesn’t come out easily, it’s not done and might need to be grilled a bit longer). Serve with melted butter.

Howard Hall is an original member of the Napa Valley Raiders Booster Club.

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Renee and Roy Chernus’ ‘Beat the Panthers’ Carolina Pulled Pork Sandwiches With Sauce and Slaw

Serves 6 to 8

Rub

Mix together:

1 tablespoon ground black pepper

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Meat

1/2 boneless pork shoulder (about 3 pounds)

Massage rub into the pork and refrigerate overnight.

Mop

Stir together and refrigerate:

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup water

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons ground black pepper

2 teaspoons salt

Sauce

Stir together and refrigerate:

3/4 cup apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup ketchup

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper

Slaw

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup sauce (see above)

1 to 1 1/2 pounds sliced green cabbage (about 8 cups)

Stir together the mayonnaise and sauce and refrigerate. Before serving, toss cabbage with dressing.

You will also need a drip pan, charcoal briquettes, hickory chips, 2 cans of beer and 8 buns.

For a standard kettle-style grill (the Chernuses have a portable 18-inch Weber), use charcoal briquettes sprinkled with hickory chips soaked in water. Light the charcoal and bring the temperature to 225 to 250 degrees.

Put the drip pan between the coals and fill it halfway with beer. Place pork on the grill (over the drip pan) and cook until a meat thermometer in the center of the pork registers 165 degrees. Turn the pork and brush with the mop every 40 minutes or so, about five hours total. Add more charcoal as needed to maintain temperature and more chips as needed for smoke.

After cooking, let the pork cool for about 30 minutes. Shred into small pieces on a clean cutting board and mix with drippings. Divide pork onto buns. Season with sauce and add slaw.

The Chernuses have theme tailgates where they “eat” their opponents.

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Resource Guide

Hibachi, at Crate and Barrel stores; cutting board and set of yellow trays, at Sur La Table stores; Sori Yanagi tongs, at Tortoise, Venice, (310) 314-8448; pint glass, at UCLA Store, Westwood, (310) 825-6064; Johnston Home blanket, at the Velvet Garden, Los Angeles, (323) 852-1766. USC license plate, straw hat and flag, at USC Bookstore, Los Angeles, (213) 740-0066; Toscana goblets and red oval platter, at Sur La Table; round red tray and set of small serving plates, at Crate and Barrel; leather chair, at Zipper, Los Angeles, (323) 951-9190; walnut stool, at Tortoise; yellow napkins, at Maison Midi, Los Angeles, (323) 935-3157. Gala wine glasses, polka-dot tumblers, yellow plates, white plates, red snack plate, Linden tablecloth and napkins and picnic basket (without logo), all at Crate and Barrel; wood tray, black Sori Yanagi bowl and yellow-and-black pillow, all at Tortoise; striped pillows by Gold Crest, at Berk’s, Santa Monica, (310) 828-7447; red Victory cooler, at Koontz Hardware, West Hollywood, (310) 652-0123; 49ers nostalgia tie, at Tieguys.com. Coleman cooler, at Koontz Hardware; double-grid trivet, tailgate grill, bottle opener, lobster napkins and barbecue sauce pot with brush, all at Crate and Barrel; black Sori Yanagi platter and dinner plate, cast-iron fish pan and black-handled flatware, all at Tortoise.

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Styled by Maggie Hill Ward; food stylist: Karen Gillingham