The Musso Mystique: If It Ain’t Broke . . .

Little has altered since Musso & Frank Grill opened its doors on Hollywood Boulevard in September of 1919. Office manager Frederica Kaye attributes it to an old house edict: Put the money in the bank and don’t change a thing. Celebrities, players and Hollywood wannabes still fill the leather booths, counter space and spacious bar, but these days the wait staff--long considered grumpy by critics and fans alike--seems friendlier. We asked some longtime waiters and bartenders to dish about that new attitude, among other things.

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Sergio Gonzalez

Waiter, 52

How did you start working here?

I started as a busboy in 1972.

Why have you stayed so long?

The bosses are nice. We have good customers, and we run the place.

Are celebs commonplace here?

I knew “Spider-Man” director Sam Raimi for many years. Then he was in the newspaper. I was like, “Oh, that’s Sam.”

How has the clientele changed?

Women, they give better tips than they used to.

Celebrity client you like?

Keith Richards. Him and Johnny Depp lots of times come in together. They are the best tippers.

Other famous encounters?

Alonso Castillo, another waiter, and I went to see “Blue Velvet” at the El Capitan Theater. Francis Ford Coppola was there in red sneakers--Converse. He said, “What are you guys doing here? Come on.” He bought us popcorn and Coca-Cola.

Why does the staff have a surly reputation?

Some people say we’re grouches, and we’re not.

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Manuel Felix

Waiter, 66

How did you start working here?

I started in 1974. I walked in and asked for a job. I started that Friday.

Explain the Musso mystique.

One, the history. Two, the food. I still believe Hollywood was built around Musso & Frank.

Waiters at other restaurants are often struggling actors.

I feel sorry for them. They have one foot in the grave and one foot on a banana peel.

You aren’t waiting for a big break?

No. I’m a professional waiter. The commitment to excellence is here.

How has the clientele changed?

They don’t dress as they used to. They lack some kind of training.

Memorable experiences here?

Working through grief when my wife passed away. Some waiters have passed away and those nights have been difficult.

Does the staff deserve its surly reputation?

The reputation was broken by me. I gave it that sweet smell of mine.

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Manny Aguirre

Bartender, 70

How did you start working here?

I came to Musso & Frank 18 years ago.

Explain the Musso mystique.

If the walls could talk, you could see, you could feel, the people that used to come here.

What separates a Hollywood phony from a class act?

I can tell when they order drinks. They make up drinks with their own names.

How has the clientele changed?

If someone walks in and says, “How much for a beer?” I know they don’t belong here.

Memorable night?

Not long ago Drew Barrymore was looking at the mirror here, and I said, “Honey, that mirror is a liar.” She started laughing.

Your biggest tipper?

Keith Richards. He’s one of the best.

Why does the staff have a surly reputation?

They used to have it in the ‘40s because the majority was Europeans.

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Fernando Mateus

Waiter, 71

How did you start working here?

I came here in 1986. I got accustomed to the place. Everybody is congenial. I am not the nicest or easiest guy to live with.

What separates a Hollywood phony from a class act?

One day a lady asked me, “Do you have sorbet?” I brought her one, and she said, “No, no, no, no. This is sherbet. That’s not sorbet!” I said, “Madam, if you spoke French, it would be.”

How has the area changed?

In the good old days, Hollywood Boulevard seems to have been a boulevard; today it’s just a street. All you can buy is luggage, socks, stereos and shirts.

Does the staff deserve its surly reputation?

No. There are days when we don’t wake up on the right side of the bed or people behave in a way that we have to kind of be gruff.