Party of one

You want a fabulous meal but hate dining alone? These terrific restaurants all have bustling counter scenes that are made for solo diners.

Chinois

There are few experiences more fun, especially for foodies and cooks, than dining at the nine-seat bar overlooking the kitchen at Wolfgang Puck’s French-Asian restaurant. The hostesses call it “dinner and a show” for good reason. A fast-moving crew of synchronized chefs turns out plates of meaty caramelized baby back ribs and sweet lobster napped in ginger curry sauce.

* First courses $14 to $24.50, entrees $26.75 to $41.50. 2709 Main St., Santa Monica. (310) 392-9025.

Angelini Osteria

Choose your spot: a seat at the low counter tucked into the corner of the cozy dining room or at the high counter behind the dining room, with a view of the pizza oven. We prefer the low counter, which feels more a part of the action. But either way, you’ll eat wonderfully. Think ethereal pastas and grilled meats.

* Antipasti $8 to $15, second courses $20 to $34. 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (323) 297-0070.

Water Grill

Who can resist the display of fresh oysters, giant prawns and lobster on ice at one end of the oval-shaped bar at this sophisticated fish house? Order a platter, with all the requisite dipping sauces. Or try the tuna tartare (what most others around town aspire to be) and a perfect piece of John Dory.

* First courses $12 to $22, main courses $25 to $39. 544 S. Grand Ave., downtown L.A. (213) 891-0900.

Campanile

The bar has just had a makeover and is snazzier than ever. And the new bar menu includes baked mussels with jamon serrano and a nightly grilled cheese sandwich. The bonus: You can watch most of the cooking from your perch, usually by chef Mark Peel himself.

* Bar menu items $7 to $14. 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A. (323) 938-1447.

Ruth’s Chris

Scoring a last-minute reservation at this steakhouse can be a challenge. But you can usually land a seat at the handsome bar. What to order? A steak, of course, cooked beautifully and big on flavor. Add a fully loaded potato, maybe some creamed spinach. Still hungry? Bread pudding with whiskey sauce is killer.

* Appetizers $10.95 to $17.95, steaks $27.95 to $37.95. 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 859-8744.