2003 Copain Roussanne James Berry Vineyard

Viognier is the one white Rhone varietal that has had a big success in California. But here’s a terrific Rhone-style white that’s 100% Roussanne, the grape that gives Hermitage blanc its haunting aroma. From grapes grown on the steep slopes of Paso Robles’ James Berry vineyard, the 2003 Copain Roussanne has a scent of honeysuckle and white peaches. It’s beautifully balanced, with a lush texture and a taste of almonds and green olives, with a drop of lemon at the end.

Drink it as an aperitif, or with smoked salmon or trout. It has the brawn to stand up to grilled prawns and other seafood, or a nice piece of halibut or sturgeon.

-- S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Paso Robles

Price: About $30

Style: Aromatic and lush

Food it goes with: Smoked fish, grilled shrimp and seafood, cheese

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Lazy Acres Market in Santa Barbara, (805) 564-4410; Wade’s Wines in Westlake Village, (818) 597-9463; and the Wine Gallery in Corona del Mar, (949) 675-3410.