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Where’s the beef?

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Thought the steak craze was just a passing fad? Not so. The steakhouses just keep coming.

Lincoln Steakhouse Americana

Lincoln features a design that might be described as clubhouse meets hunting lodge. The crowd gets younger and louder as the night goes on, so if you’re looking for quiet conversation, consider dining while it’s still light out. Chef Jack Melson has given the menu a Southern flair -- there’s a filet stuffed with fried oysters and shrimp. Pass the Lipitor.

* Stuffed filet, $52;

2460 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica;

(310) 828-3304.

Chapter 8

We didn’t expect to find something this cool in the Conejo Valley: a sexy steakhouse-slash-disco done up in lipstick red and black. The main dining room features curvy oversized booths, plasma screens and shimmery falls of crystals. And what about the menu? We laud the commitment to carbs: eight kinds of potatoes, including “super buttery mashed.”

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* Mashed potatoes, $8;

29020 Agoura Road, Agoura Hills; (818) 889-2088.

Dakota

The latest entry from husband-wife restaurateurs Tim and Liza Goodell, this newcomer features a menu of well-executed steakhouse classics including a fine Caesar salad and what just might be the city’s best onion rings (well worth the splurge). But reserve early, unless you’re interested in 6 or 10 p.m. (And that’s if you’re lucky.)

* Caesar salad, $10; onion rings $7; 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 769-8888.

BOA Steakhouse

Aesthetes will find plenty to appreciate at this steakhouse by the sea: a stunning interior with comfy caramel-color leather booths and a dramatic glassed-in wine room. But BOA’s appeal goes beyond the surface, with a terrific New York strip, for example, and nearly 50 wines by the glass.

* New York strip, $39;

101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 899-4466.

Sterling

Chris Breed and partners -- the guys behind White Lotus and the restored Pig’n Whistle -- seem to have the magic touch in delivering what hip Angelenos crave. They recently transformed one half of the Sunset Room into a gorgeous steakhouse. (The other half is the Cabana Club.) The food doesn’t disappoint, especially the Kansas City strip, paired with creamed spinach.

* Kansas City strip, $42; creamed spinach, $8; 1429 Ivar Ave., Hollywood; (323) 463-0008.

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