2004 Chateau La Canorgue Cotes du Luberon

Before Peter Mayle wrote “A Year in Provence,” the Luberon was a relatively sleepy place, treasured for its wildly beautiful landscape of hill towns and ochre cliffs, vineyards and lavender fields. Part of the scene since the 17th century, Chateau La Canorgue produces one of the summer’s best roses. Dedicated to the idea of producing wines naturally, the Margan family farms their terraced vineyards organically and biodynamically. The vines aren’t young, so the production is naturally low. The result is a lovely, coppery rose lightly perfumed with strawberries and flowers. Dry and fruity, it goes down very easy, leaving behind an impression of fruit and earth.

It’s a wonderful food wine, easily bridging the gap from aperitif to the table. Serve it with olives and salame, with soupe au pistou, pissaladiere and salads, even roast chicken and bouillabaisse.

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Quick swirl

Region: Provence

Price: About $13

Style: Dry and fruity

Food it goes with: Olives, soupe au pistou, salads, bouillabaisse

Where you find it: Mel & Rose Liquor & Deli in West Hollywood, (323) 655-5557; Wine Country in Long Beach, (562) 597-8303; and the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.