2003 Clos des Brusquieres Chateauneuf-du-Pape

When Chateauneuf-du-Pape is good, it is very, very good. The Clos des Brusquieres from the 2003 vintage slips neatly into the latter category and comes in at what for Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a bargain price. Concentrated and rich, it carries the scents of black cherries, leather and tobacco. The taste is warm and burnished, with just enough of something rustic and wild to keep you coming back to the glass sip after sip. Clos des Brusquieres is dominated by Grenache, which makes up some 60% -- with Syrah and Mourvedre coming in at 30% and 10% respectively. The tannins aren’t shy, but give them time, or give them something with a sauce, and they’ll behave beautifully.

I could see this with the Christmas goose, with an earthy daube or stew, or a standing pork rib roast infused with herbs. A wild boar, of course, would be perfect should one present itself.

Quick swirl

Region: Southern Rhone

Price: About $30

Style: Rich and full-bodied

Food it goes with: Roast goose or duck, a daube or stew, standing pork rib roast

Where you find it: Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Vintage Wines Limited in San Diego (858) 549-2112, Wine Country in Long Beach, (562) 597-8303; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; the Wine Room in Irvine, (949) 585-9463 and (866) 585-WINE

-- S. Irene Virbila