Foie gras

Foie gras might not be politically correct, but it can be outrageously delicious and is one of those foodstuffs few of us would ever attempt to cook with at home. In other words: It is an excellent reason to eat out.

Sona

At this sleek, chic dining room, the foie gras presentation starts with a slice of homemade brioche, marinated in Amaretto and vanilla and sauteed in butter until crisp. It’s topped with sauteed foie gras, a beguiling pear chutney and slivers of green papaya. An added bonus: a rectangle of chilled foie gras terrine layered with spiced pears.

* Seared foie gras, $21; 401 N. La Cienega Blvd.; West Hollywood; (310) 659-7708.

The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Pasadena

Chef Craig Strong has a soft spot for the classics, and his country pate is a fine example. Strong layers roasted guinea hen, foie gras, carrots, pearl onions and green peppercorns into a mold lined with Parma ham. This is cooked in a bain-marie. Guests enjoy a slice of pate with a slab of grilled ciabatta bread and a salad in a seductive truffle dressing.

* Pate, $15; 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave.; Pasadena; (626) 577-2867.

L’Orangerie

In keeping with the theory that two is better than one, L’Orangerie offers a foie gras duo. Part one: a brulee with the classic, crunchy sugar top, accented with a quenelle of creamy, green apple foam. Part two: a nougatine, a rectangle of chilled foie gras laced with toasted nuts and dried fruit. Fruit chutney and warm brioche complete the presentation.

* Duo, $30; 903 N. La Cienega Blvd.; West Hollywood; (310) 652-9770.

Aqua at St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort

Here too you can double your pleasure with the Foie Gras -- Cold and Hot starter. A slice of chilled foie gras terrine is served with toasted pumpkin bread and an autumn fruit compote touched with brandy. The costar is seared foie gras with a shallot-caper fondue and caramelized quince.

* Foie gras, cold and hot, $23; One Monarch Beach Resort; Dana Point; (949) 234-3200.

Melisse

Chef Josiah Citrin’s foie gras terrine comes with a compote of dates, dried apricot and Meyer lemon, a tiny salad of peppery greens and, on the side, brioche toasts, fleur de sel and cracked telecherry pepper.

* Terrine, $28; 1104 Wilshire Blvd.; Santa Monica; (310) 395-0881.

*

-- Leslee Komaiko