2003 J. Palacios Petalos del Bierzo

Spain’s Alvaro Palacios has the golden touch.

Here’s another beautiful red for well under $20. Something like a Rhone in spirit, the 2003 Petalos del Bierzo has a scent of blackberries and smoke. Soft, ripe tannins and a bracing acidity give the wine definition. It’s 100% Mencia, the primary grape for reds in this cool-climate, wine-growing region of northwest Spain. And the vines are old -- not just 15 years old, say, but anywhere between 60 and 100 years old -- which means a concentrated, inky juice.

Bottled unfiltered and unfined, the Petalos del Bierzo oozes character. This wine is worth twice the price.

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Quick swirl

Region: Bierzo, Spain

Price: About $16

Style: Elegant and smooth

Food it goes with: The usual: grilled and braised meats, summer barbecues

Where you find it: Heritage Wine Company in Pasadena, (626) 844-9333; Silver Lake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Wine Cask in Santa Barbara, (805) 966-9463; Woodland Hills Wine Company in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.