Turf, surf, county fairs: All bets are on

The first few notes of the bugle set hearts racing. Then the horses shoot out of the starting gate and the fans begin their ritualistic routines. To the beat of their quickened pulse, people pound their rolled-up programs or pump arms in the air and chant, “Come on, come on.” A flash later, when the first three horses have crossed the finish line, most in the crowd have dropped their shoulders in disappointment. They toss away now-worthless tickets and start searching for their next inspired bet.

Such are the ups and downs of horse racing, a sport that lures professional bettors, horse lovers and time wasters to Southern California’s tracks every day. They come to win, but also to hang out, smoke a cigar outdoors with a view of the manicured infield and exchange hard-earned advice with strangers.

The writer William Murray, who died Wednesday at 78, found inspiration at the races and set 10 of his novels at Southern California tracks, mostly at Santa Anita. “I love it from the first roar of the crowd at the first race of the day,” he said in an interview shortly before his death. “Before there were Indian casinos, fast ways to Las Vegas or satellite wagering, there was horse racing.”

In addition to the thrill of betting, racing has its social aspects. Sheiks, celebrities, politicians and even diet queen Jenny Craig hobnob in isolated VIP areas and dine on curry-flavored roasted pork loin with drunken raisins while Regular Joes (fans are mostly male) mill around in general-admission areas clutching $2 exactas.

And although a person has to be at least 18 to wager, families too, come to the track, toting picnic baskets, blankets and dreams of victory.

General admission is only a few dollars, but some seating, depending on its location and sight of the final stretch, can cost more, especially in the private luxury suites or clubs where dress codes are enforced (no tennis shoes or tank tops).

What follows is a brief look at four other racetracks in Southern California:

Hollywood Park

This track has every right to have “Hollywood” in its name, even though it’s in Inglewood. When its turf club opened in 1938, Jack L. Warner of Warner Bros. was in charge and shareholders were Tinseltown’s most powerful: Sam Goldwyn, Darryl F. Zanuck, Walt Disney.

Most of the glitter is gone today, but there are still a number of important races (the track is owned by Churchill Downs Inc., which puts on the Kentucky Derby). This season has the $1.3-million National Gold Rush stakes races, the $750,000 American Oaks and the $750,000 Hollywood Gold Cup.

The Spring/Summer Meeting runs Wednesdays through Sundays, April 22 to July 17. Admission starts at $7, parking included. 1050 S. Prairie Ave., Inglewood. (310) 419-1500; www.hollywoodpark.com

Del Mar Thoroughbred Club

The sleepy San Diego beach town of Del Mar woke up in 1937 when Bing Crosby opened this picturesque track with a catchy song: “Take a plane, take a train, take a car” to “where the turf meets the surf at Del Mar.” A year later, Seabiscuit took the spotlight by nosing out a win against Crosby’s horse, Ligaroti.

Opening day attracts a sellout crowd of more than 40,000, the largest in the state; that number drops to 12,000 to 15,000 during the week. The lure, besides the hypnotic ocean view? “It’s intimate like Saratoga,” said Murray, who had spent 38 summers in Del Mar. “If you really love the game, you want to be close to the riders and have the smell of horses in your nostrils.”

Fans huddling in the Spanish Colonial-style building that houses the grandstand can watch the action on the track or look down from the terraces at the paddock, where the horses are saddled and soothed before each race.

Two-legged creatures are also on display here. The showy hats and formal dress of opening day relax into sun-loving skimpy outfits as the season unfolds.

The 2005 season runs Wednesdays through Mondays, July 20 through Sept. 7 (tickets go on sale May 2). Admission starts at $5. Parking is $5.

Those arriving by Amtrak will be shuttled to the track free of charge on red British double-decker buses. 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar. (858) 755-1141; www.dmtc.com.

Fairplex Park

Many fans saw their first race accidentally at the county fair. Sometime between buying cotton candy and watching the 4-H kids have their animals judged, they wandered into the grandstand to see one race and stayed for the whole card.

Horse racing has been a part of the Los Angeles County Fair since the first one in 1922, and the track in 1933 was the first in Southern California to feature legal parimutuel wagering.

“The Fairplex is a welcome change from the serious racing grind,” Murray said. “The track is a ‘bullring,’ five-eighths of a mile like Los Alamitos. It requires horses to take two tight turns or they end up in the parking lot. But it’s fun because the purses are good and you’re at the fair.”

Thoroughbreds, appaloosas and quarter horses will race Sept. 9 to 25 (except Tuesdays) during the fair. Admission to the track is free with fair admission. 1101 W. McKinley Ave., Pomona. (909) 865-4630;

www.fair plex.com.

Los Alamitos Race Course

The fans at this track like its ease: no traffic snarls, no elbowing to get a glimpse of the finish line, no intimidating social hierarchy. The only pressure, other than picking a winner, is deciding whether to pay an extra $7 to enter the Vessels Club, a plush dining room where blackened prime rib is the most popular entree.

The room is busy even when there are no horses stamping around the walking ring. That’s because, like at other tracks, simulcast satellite-broadcast monitors are relaying races from around the country. The afternoon crowd placing bets on contests at New York’s Belmont Park usually clears out in time for new bettors lining up for live racing in the evenings.

Here, it’s mostly quarter horse racing, which some fans like and others don’t. “Some quarter horses are impressive, faster than any thoroughbred at that short distance,” Murray said. “But there are no tactics; it doesn’t matter if the jockeys are good or not if they can’t get their horse out of the gate. And it’s all over in 22 seconds.”

Track announcer Ed Burgart and handicapper Les Onaka host Clocker’s Corner seminars Saturdays at 9:30 a.m. in the lower level of the clubhouse.

Racing is held Thursdays through Sundays year-round except for some holidays. Admission starts at $3. General parking is free. 4961 Katella Ave., Los Alamitos. (714) 820-2800; www.losalamitos.com.

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In the money

Bettors, who have to be at least 18 years old, have a number of options at the track. Many racetracks offers free seminars for beginners.

Here are some common bets:

* Win: Picking the horse to finish first.

* Place: Horse to finish either first or second.

* Show: Horse to finish first, second or third.

* Exacta: Horses to finish first and second in exact order.

* Quinella: First two finishers in either order.

* Trifecta: First three finishers in exact order.

* The Daily Double: Winners of two designated races.

* Pick 6: Winners of six designated races.

For more horse racing information, there is a glossary of terms at www.losalamitos.com/laqhr /racing_glossary.pdf.