Drawing mouths to the flame

Darkness falls, the snacks come out and that whole immemorial thing of gathering around a fire works its magic.

*

Beechwood

The action often spills over from Beechwood’s chic bar into a walled patio with a fireplace, full of the tang of salt air. Have some of the jazzy bar nibbles, such as the fried baby octopus with a caper and horseradish aioli, or the salad of radishes and fennel with ricotta salata.

* Fried baby octopus, $8. Radish and fennel salad, $6. 822 W. Washington Blvd., Venice;

(310) 448-8884.

Ma’kai Lounge

At the quasi-Polynesian hot spot formerly known as just plain Kai, the food runs to culinary fusions such as albacore-jalapeno hand rolls (wrapped in soy paper instead of seaweed) and a hamburger made of Kobe beef. When the sea breeze turns chilly out on the wrap-around terrace patio, the warming fire pit is more than just a conversational backdrop.

* Soy paper hand rolls, $8. Kobe beef burger, $15. 101 Broadway, Santa Monica; (310) 434-1511.

O-Bar

This flashy West Hollywood place has a menu described as “comfort food with a twist.” Expect squash ravioli, an elaborate version of the seven-layer dip and an impressive hamburger made of dry-aged steak, topped with bacon onion confit and cheese. And check out the double fire pit in the “Forbidden Garden.”

* Dry-aged steak hamburger with bacon onion confit and cheese, $14. 8279 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood; (323) 822-3300.

Dominick’s

If you’re in the mood for a studied ‘40s vibe, your best bet is a place that actually goes back to 1948. But in case the noise level gets too high in Dominick’s dining room, you can escape to its walled garden patio and sit around the fireplace. Try the steamed artichoke, which is split, charred on the grill and sprinkled with lemon juice.

* Grilled artichoke, $11. 8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 652-2335.

Pacifico’s

In Culver City, there’s a faux beach shack/serious Mexican seafood restaurant that calls itself “the home of the huachinango” (fried red snapper). On cool nights, they stoke up the fire pit on the patio.

* Huachinango, $12.95 lunch, $14.95 dinner. 9341 Culver Blvd., Culver City; (310) 559-3474.

-- Charles Perry