Santa Ana Tour Takes a Step Back

In Santa Ana, always struggling to shine amid its tonier Orange County neighbors, the historical society has found a way to get people to think differently about the city -- by recalling its rich past.

On tours of the city’s downtown, a guide takes visitors back to the turn of the century, when the city was a regional center of money and power and the United States was a different place as well.

On one recent expedition, guide Tim Rush reminds visitors of a time when Santa Ana got more respect and was chosen as the place to construct lavish homes and buildings.

Rush, a member of the Santa Ana Historical Preservation Society and a longtime city resident, tells visitors that many of the structures they’ll see were built when “paper clips, picture postcards, safety razors, ice cream cones and the yellow pages were among the newest fads” in the early 1900s.

After several unsuccessful attempts to separate from Los Angeles County, Orange County was formed in 1889, and Santa Ana became the county seat. City founder William H. Spurgeon was elected chairman of the Board of Supervisors. Although it is not the oldest municipality in Orange County, Santa Ana was flooded with commerce, and wealthy merchants lived in spacious homes nearby. That makes downtown Santa Ana a favorite among local historians.

“If you are looking for historic buildings, Santa Ana has more than other cities in Orange County. That it was the county seat gives it an edge,” said Orange County historian Jim Sleeper. Comparing it to the hubbub New York City, he said, “Fourth and Main was like Broadway and 42nd Street for Orange County. Some buildings have been modified with new facades, but underneath there’s history.”

These days, a trip to downtown for many county residents is usually for official business in one of its courthouses or governmental buildings. But only recently has the area begun to live down a reputation for crime and urban decay and, increasingly, its streets are dotted with restaurants, shops and galleries.

The 31-year-old historical society, which has 375 members, has sought to maintain old buildings, often taking positions on development proposals, such as one for a 37-story office tower that it opposed.

On the first Saturday of each month, Rush’s three-hour walking tour begins at 2:30 p.m. at 120 Civic Center Drive, the historic Queen Anne-style Howe-Waffle House. The building is named after Willella Howe-Waffle, one of the county’s first female doctors.

The route through a 10-block area of the city’s downtown opens the eyes of participants to what they might not even have noticed before: ornate columns, garlands, gargoyles and cornices -- so different from much of the new construction in suburban Orange County.

“I’m passionate about our downtown, and I love architecture,” said Rush, 50. “I think there’s a lot of untapped interest out there for

Rush and other local historians revel in telling juicy tidbits about the city. Howe-Waffle’s first husband was acquitted on charges of abortion. After that, he left the city. In 1892, the last lynching in California occurred at 4th and Sycamore streets, just down the street from the Howe-Waffle house.

After the $8 tour ends, participants are encouraged to view galleries in the city’s artists village. The first Saturday night of each month is when the area sponsors an “art walk,” with most galleries open.

Among those trailing behind Rush on a recent Saturday was Elizabeth Youngblood, who moved from Portland, Ore., to Santa Ana four years ago and restored a historic home in the city.

“We have never gotten the history of the city, and we enjoy preservation, so it was natural for me to come here,” said Youngblood, 36. “Santa Ana gets a bad rap. The cool thing is that Santa Ana is where the big money was. It was the center of commerce and everything.”

Among the group’s first stops is the Old Orange County Courthouse, a tangible reminder of Spurgeon, the city founder, whose offer of land for a county courthouse was the one accepted in 1893. Many politicians, including President Richard M. Nixon, have held rallies or given speeches there.

As Rush ambles from building to building, he points out architectural styles, such as the Churrigueresque, or Spanish baroque, elements, including gargoyles, in the facade of the Santora Building on Broadway. In the 1930s and 1940s, Daniger’s Tea House attracted Jack Benny, Gracie Allen and Milton Berle, among others.

The group also looked at the arch of the former West End Theatre, a silent-movie house that houses retail shops now.

Rush works in his own opinions about new development, developers and historic preservation. He criticizes the County Hall of Administration as lacking a unique architectural style.

After a brief stop for water at the Broadway Cafe, Rush continues to show buildings, such as the Masonic Temple at 505 Sycamore Street, built for $300,000, quite a sum in 1931. The four-story building, with an Art Deco facade, has a Gothic Revival interior, and includes three ballrooms, theater space and a dining area. The building is available for private events.

Among the 15 people on the recent tour was Natasha Shah, 33, a photographer who was eyeballing subjects for future work. Others were astounded by history they never imagined.

“People don’t realize how much history is here,” added Susann Voyer, 41, of Santa Ana. “When you own an old house, like we do, you get an idea. But something like this really brings it home.”