Ribs worth waiting for

WHEN I heard about a new barbecue place in Sherman Oaks called Boneyard Bistro, I had to check it out just because of the name. Since it had been open only just over a week, I didn’t bother to make a reservation. How busy could it be after 8 on a weeknight?

“It will be a 20-minute wait,” the hostess told us.

My husband, who could never be called the patient type, wanted to bolt. But I strolled him past the picture window, where you could see groups of four and six chowing down on big platters of barbecue. The beef bones looked humongous, the baby-back ribs ruddy and lean. Diners seated at the banquettes along the exposed brick walls were drinking wine, laughing and having what looked like a fine old time.

He guessed he could wait.

Just then a well-fed gentleman walked out the door, turning back to call out to the assembled company, or just one waiter (it was hard to tell), “See you tomorrow!” The place has been open a week and he’s already a regular? I know the Valley is starved for new restaurants, but he seemed genuinely enthusiastic.

Twenty minutes later, we had our table, an adorable waiter and a menu of “barbecue and beyond.” How smart. They’ve got barbecue, salads, Asian-inspired dishes and other main courses, should anybody tire of barbecue or want to eat lighter.

Boneyard Bistro is a father-and-son affair. The front of the house is Preston Robins. His son, Aaron, is the chef. His experience includes working at Charlie Trotter in Chicago and Flying Saucer in San Francisco, but this is his first restaurant on his own.

The ‘cue is generous and good. Ribs come in three styles -- St. Louis spareribs, baby-back ribs and those big beef ribs. Order them by the half or full rack, or with any of the meats in various combinations. Meats include brisket, pulled pork, barbecued chicken and Santa Maria-style tri-tip grilled over red oak, which is how the massive beef ribs are cooked as well.

Orders include your choice of two sides. Don’t pass up the fried mac ‘n’ cheese, a deep-fried triangle of macaroni and cheese that hides a little kick of hot pepper. The slaw is fresh and crunchy, the baked beans laced with tomato and molasses and brisket ends. Only the collard greens are a bit disappointing, mostly because they’re stewed to a khaki color and cloyingly sweet.

The “beyond” part of the menu holds some nice surprises, such as the Thai-spiced crispy calamari salad, which is a heap of Asian vegetables and roasted peanuts with crisp calamari rings and tentacles buried in there somewhere. It’s kind of irresistible. Pulled pork dumplings, despite a thick wrapper, tantalize with a Boneyard BBQ beurre blanc.

Main dishes include a whiskey-brined pork chop, which comes with an innovative collard-green egg roll and sweet potato mash, hickory-smoked duck breast with shiitake rice cake and hoisin cherry compote, as well as blackened catfish with jambalaya risotto. The kitchen is making music with some specials too.

For dessert, go with the banana split. Definitely.

Boneyard Bistro has a little something for everybody. Small wonder some people have been coming back night after night.

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Boneyard Bistro

Where: 13539 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks

When: Dinner 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 6 to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 5 to 9 p.m. Sundays; closed Mondays. Beer and wine. Valet parking.

Cost: Appetizers, $8 to $10; salads, $6 to $12; bistro menu, $18 to $26; barbecue sandwiches, $10 to $11; barbecue dinners, $13 to $26; mega platter (serves 8 to 10), $200; desserts, $7. Takeout and catering.

Info: (818) 906-RIBS; fax (818) 906-9119