The hearts of L.A.

Stanley’s

This Valley institution’s extensive menu has two jumbo artichoke preparations. One is steamed and served with a chipotle mayo. The other is split in half, basted with an herb vinaigrette and grilled. A bit messy to eat, but well worth the oily fingers.

* Steamed or grilled artichoke, $6.95; 13817 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks; (818) 986-4623.

Amici

Dozens of trattorias around town make a carciofi (Italian for “artichoke”) salad. But this casual spot on the edge of Beverly Hills does one of the best, with thinly sliced baby artichokes, hearts of palm, walnut pieces, sheaths of good parmesan and lots of lemon juice, it is light and satisfying.

* Carciofi salad, $12.95; 469 N. Doheny Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 858-0271.

Hollywood & Vine

Watching your waistline? Then you definitely want to skip the rich spinach-artichoke dip served at this progressive American dining room. Made with a bechamel base, quartered artichokes and a topping of gratineed asiago cheese, it is served warm in a ceramic crock and accompanied by three different breads: Indian naan, spicy cracker crisps and crusty French bread. You also have the option to add Dungeness crab or crumbled bacon, though it hardly needs any extra help.

* Spinach-artichoke dip, $12; 6263 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 464-2345.

Nic’s

At this stylish restaurant and martini lounge, which features live music or a DJ most nights, guests enjoy textbook martinis. To eat? There’s a giant, meaty artichoke served at room temperature and drizzled with warm miso butter touched with garlic. Puts that old- fashioned side of mayo to shame.

* Steamed artichoke, $13; 453 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 550-5707.

Dominick’s

At this hot spot with the pretty patio out back, the most popular dish on the menu is the grilled artichoke. Chef Brandon Boudet, a grilling fiend, takes an artichoke poached in white wine, cuts it in half, paints it with a blend of red wine vinegar, olive oil and fresh herbs, and cooks it over white oak. Served with a grilled half-lemon, it’s irresistible.

* Grilled artichoke, $11; 8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 652-2335.

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-- Leslee Komaiko