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Thompson Seedless grapes: Choose Thompson Seedless grapes when they’re golden, almost amber, and you’ll be surprised at how floral and sophisticated their flavor can be. At one time, Thompsons were the No. 1 table grape, raisin grape and wine grape in California. Today, Thompsons still rule the raisin business, but with fresh grapes, the competition is catching up (most notably the Flame Crimson, which is pretty simple in flavor, sweet and crunchy). Flame Crimsons are just ending and Thompsons are just beginning, so you’ll probably have to wait a week or so to get them at their peak. But when you do see them, remember to give an old grape a second chance.

Various vendors, $2 a pound

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Peak season

Eggplants: The sheer variety of eggplants in the market at this time of year can be a bit overwhelming. They come in all shades of purple from black to pale, and also in white and green. And the shapes! Some are long and thin as a banana, some are round as a billiard ball and some even look like elaborately tufted pieces of furniture (the gorgeous Rosa Bianca). But if this variety is confusing, there is good news: For the most part, eggplant tastes like eggplant. Unless you’ve found some of those tiny Southeast Asian varieties that tend to be a little bitter (one looks like a bunch of grapes, another like a green marble egg), the main difference in the varieties is texture: Eggplant ranges from firm to creamy. This can be hard to predict, though generally, the familiar black globe eggplants are the most fibrous. Ask your farmer: The other day I picked up an eggplant I’d never seen at the Weiser Family Farms stand and after cooking, it was downright buttery. Eggplant can be sauteed, of course, but also grilled, roasted and even steamed -- cook it until it’s tender, and then dress it with a little minced garlic, torn fresh herbs, some good olive oil and sherry vinegar.

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Various vendors, $1 to $2 per pound

-- Russ Parsons

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