Tasting panel picks: The wines that sing with salumi

Of the 25 wines The Times tasting panel sampled with cured meats, these were the bottles that matched most felicitously, listed from lightest to most full-bodied:

Barbolini Lambrusco Grasparossa, nonvintage. Light, effervescent and dry, with good fruit, this appealing wine is delicious on its own as an aperitif and is also fabulous with just about every type of salumi. Its pretty aromas and lovely texture keep bringing you back for another sip. Available at Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; and Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-5935, about $12.

Fiorini Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, nonvintage. A delicious, concentrated wine with good acid, lively dark berry flavors and a nice prickle that cuts through the fat of salumi. Particularly good with lightly smoked meats, such as speck, and fattier meats, such as guanciale. At Wine House, $15.

Concerto Reggiano Lambrusco Medici Ermete, nonvintage. An exuberant, dark red frizzante wine with a deep grapey nose, lots of dark berry character, a touch of bitterness and a touch of sweetness. Panelists were divided on the meats it paired best with; several said fatty salumi (“It cleanses the palate after the fattiness,” said one), while others found it too fruity for salami, preferring it with soppressata, prosciutto and speck. Available at Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, about $19.

2003 Borgogno Freisa d’Asti. Light, dry, a bit frothy and perfumed, with pretty blackberry flavors, this wine is terrific with finocchiona (fennel-flavored salami) and smoky speck. Available at Wine House, about $16.

2004 Chionetti Briccolero Dolcetto di Dogliani. Another good finocchiona wine, this Dolcetto, with supple tannins to cut through the fat, bright red berry fruit and a long finish, also works well with soppressata, coppa and cacciatore. Available at Wine House; and the Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, about $18.

2004 Renzo Castella Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba. Well-rounded and smooth, with a huge, smoky burst of fennel flavor and serious tannins and a long finish. Great with salametto, finocchiona and guanciale. Available at Silverlake Wine; Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; and Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, about $13.

Little James’ Basket Press vin de table, nonvintage. This soft, delicious and attractive Gigondas from Chateau de Saint Cosme’s winemaker has pretty berry aromas and prune and berry flavors. It’s concentrated enough to stand up to fat and spice but not so intense you can’t taste prosciutto di Parma through it. Available at Wine House; Hi-Time Wine Cellars; and Monsieur Marcel in Los Angeles, (323) 939-7792, about $13.

2004 Trenel Fils Domaine de la Tour du Bief Moulin a Vent. A beautiful village Beaujolais with smoky, blackberry flavors and supple tannins. Its fruitiness worked superbly with the salamis, soppressata and peppery coppa. Available at Wine House; Wally’s in Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606; and Woodland Hills Wine Company in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111, about $20.

2004 Jean Foillard “Cote du Py” Morgon. A dusky, floral Beaujolais with lots of fruit and soft tannins, great with the lower-fat meats such as bresaola. Available at Wine House; and the Wine Room in Irvine, (866) 585-WINE, about $21.

2005 Domaine du Vissoux Cuvee Traditionelle Beaujolais Vielle Vignes. Lively, juicy and delicious, with gorgeous rose petal aromas and some depth and complexity. Most panelists felt this paired well with the less salty meats, but one panelist felt it was too fruity and too “hollow at the center” for these flavors. Available at the Wine Exchange; and Wine House, about $12.

2004 Vietti Barbera d’Alba “Tre Vigne.” Fresh and juicy, with dark fruit aromas, earthy flavors, a beautiful, long finish and live-wire acidity that leaves you hungry for the next bite of salumi. Great with all of these cured meats. Along with the Barbolini Lambrusco, the panel’s all-around favorite. Available at the Wine Exchange; and Wine House, about $17.

2004 Vizcarra “Senda del Oro” Roble, Ribera del Duero. Earthy, fruity and intense, with lots of tannin. Good with prosciutto, great with salami. Available at Wine House; and the Wine Exchange, about $16.

2003 A Mano Primitivo. A big, slightly odd and intensely grapey wine from Puglia that needs food -- and salumi is the perfect match. Delicious smoky aromas and licorice flavors, it’s great with smoky speck and salty, spicy meats, such as felino. Available at Du Vin Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161; and Wine House, about $10.

2005 Eguren Tempranillo Vino de la Tierra de Castilla. Big and fresh, with attractive red fruit aromas, blackberry flavors and good acid. Long and delicious. Available at Silverlake Wine, about $11.

-- Betty Hallock and Leslie Brenner