A fast seafood spectacular

Dear SOS: The aroma of the cioppino at Ocean Avenue Seafood in Santa Monica is intoxicating. It’s a great dish, and I’ve tasted some great seafood dishes.

JESSYE O. DAVIS

Sherman Oaks

Dear Jessye: This cioppino is an easy-to-make showcase for good seafood. The quickly made sauce is lighter in flavor than versions with a long-simmered fish broth base, but the convenience is a big advantage. Serve it with garlic bread.

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Ocean Avenue cioppino

Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

Servings: 6

Note: From chef Silvano Mestas

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1/4 cup chopped green bell

pepper

1/4 cup chopped red bell pepper

1/4 cup chopped leek, white part only

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup tomato paste

1 pound fresh tomatoes,

seeded and chopped

2 cups canned crushed

tomatoes

1/2 cup dry red wine

2 tablespoons chopped

parsley

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram

1/4 teaspoon dried basil leaves

1/4 teaspoon crushed dried red chiles

6 cups clam juice

1/2 pound mixed fresh fish (such as mahi-mahi or halibut), cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1 dozen mussels, cleaned

1/2 pound calamari, cut into half-inch rings

1 dozen clams, cleaned

2 Dungeness crabs, cooked, cracked into large serving pieces, outer shell discarded and drained

1. Heat the oil in a stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion, peppers, leek and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, about 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Add the tomato paste, fresh and canned tomatoes, wine, parsley, oregano, marjoram, basil and dried chiles. Cook 5 minutes. Add the clam juice and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat. Simmer, covered, 15 minutes.

3. Add the fish, mussels, calamari, clams and crabs. Simmer 10 minutes, removing the clams and mussels as they open and the fish as it is cooked through. Discard any unopened shellfish. Divide the seafood among serving bowls and ladle the broth over. Serve hot.

Each serving: 297 calories; 33 grams protein; 17 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 10 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 174 mg. cholesterol; 907 mg. sodium.