Taste of Tinseltown

The Bowery

This 3-month-old bar cum bistro, a paean to Manhattan decorated with real New York City subway tiles, has an easy vibe and an immensely appealing menu, which is offered until midnight every night. Belgian beer-battered shrimp are crisp, golden beauties, served with homemade tartar sauce. There’s also a French dip made with roasted chicken in lieu of the traditional beef.

* Shrimp, $9.50; French dip, $9. 6268 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 465-3400

Musso & Frank Grill

We’re partial to the seafood cocktails served in chilled metal cups and the textbook martinis at this, the oldest restaurant in the ‘hood. (It opened in 1919.) Delicious flannel cakes -- delicate, ultra-thin hotcakes -- are served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays.

* Seafood cocktails, $14 to $20; flannel cakes, $6. 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 467-7788.

The Hungry Cat

When you want pristine seafood but aren’t up for the formality of Water Grill or Providence, there’s David Lentz’s stylish take on a New England fish house. The lobster roll has become something of a local legend. And there’s a terrific burger with bacon, avocado and blue cheese for nonseafood eaters. Lunch service debuts Tuesday.

* Lobster roll, $22 ; burger, $14. 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood; (323) 462-2155

The Griddle Cafe

Why are all those cool cats hanging out on the sidewalk outside? They’ve got a hankering for the mammoth pancakes (served all day -- well, until 4 p.m. anyway, when the place closes). Choose from more than a dozen varieties, from Good Ol’ Fashioned to Black Magic. The latter are made with Oreo cookie crumbs.

* Pancakes, $6.95 to $9.95. 7916 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 874-0377.

Kung Pao Kitty

Everyone raves about the “beef cigars,” long, thin egg rolls filled with seasoned ground beef and paired with a plum dipping sauce, and the spicy calamari at this pan-Asian spot. The space, once part of a grand movie palace dating to 1926, is memorable too, with soaring ceilings and red walls.

* “Cigars,” $7.75; calamari, $6.75. 6445 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 465-0110.

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-- Leslee Komaiko