Alternative brunchality

WHAT’S more wonderful than telling Mom to dress up, then jumping into the car and taking a long, leisurely drive up or down the coast and winding up somewhere beautiful for Mother’s Day brunch?

Don’t answer that.

Though there’s no shortage of gorgeous spots, it’s amazing how often Sunday Champagne brunch disappoints.

I thought I had the answer: The legendary Bella Vista restaurant at the Four Seasons Biltmore Santa Barbara had just reopened after a six-month renovation. The terrace is stunningly beautiful, I had always heard, and the Sunday brunch had no shortage of ardent fans.

Not so fast, unless you like fake Champagne (hilariously named Paul Chamblain, it’s undrinkable), spawning oysters, flavorless shrimp, overcooked farmed salmon, peel ‘n’ cook crepes (is it so hard to train someone to stand at the crepe station and make real ones?) and a shot-glass-sized container of less-than-stellar-quality American Sevruga caviar that doesn’t get replenished during service.

On the plus side, the coffee, fresh-squeezed orange juice, rack of lamb, prime rib and potatoes are good, the service is terrific, and the open, airy room is exquisite -- with a million-dollar view of the ocean.

But is it worth the $65-per-person price tag? Maybe not. Especially because, though the restaurant has indeed reopened, the terrace renovation is not yet complete.

Happily, there’s a better way to take in that view, and it involves real Champagne.

Walk through the Lounge bar that’s on your left when you enter the graceful, Spanish-style hotel. Just beyond it is an amazing little patio, just four or five tables, with that spectacular view splayed out in front of you.

I invite my mom to drive up with me and check it out.

We make our way out to that lovely terrace and immediately feel relaxed -- the palm trees sway before us, the waves crash gently on the shore.

We sit and breathe in the fresh sea air and order a glass of Champagne. They offer only one by the glass, but it’s a nice one -- Louis Roederer Brut Premier for $18. How civilized.

The server brings bar snacks -- good smoked almonds and wasabi-coated peanuts. We order a seafood sampler for two, and soon a platter comes with big cubes of ahi tuna sashimi skewered with watermelon and lotus root chips, crunchy hot lobster rolls (these have since been replaced by crab cakes) and something called “sole fingers,” which sounds silly but they are actually delicious -- long, thin strips of deep-fried sole with a roasted red pepper tartar sauce and a ponzu-like dipping sauce.

If you feel like something more substantial, there’s a grilled Kobe burger with fries; otherwise, it’s just bar snacks.

Or head inside to the restaurant, as long as it’s not Sunday, and take Mom to lunch.

It’s amazing that the same kitchen that makes that brunch can turn out such a lovely minty, cool fresh pea soup -- the waiter spoons it around the garnish in the center of the plate, a creme fraiche and goat cheese flan. A poached tiger shrimp and blood orange salad comes with shaved asparagus and jicama dressed with blood orange vinaigrette -- it’s original, and handled just right. Both would be great with that glass of Champagne.

Follow that with a dainty lobster salad sandwich with avocado and fennel on grilled panino or an Angus sirloin burger with Portobello mushroom and thick-cut caramelized red onions.

Dessert? Skip it, unless you like it very sweet.

Instead, leave your car with the valet and stroll the tranquil grounds of the historic 1927 resort, with its bougainvillea and giant ficus trees. Then head out the front door, cross the road, take off your shoes and set out for a long walk on the beach.

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Four Seasons Biltmore Santa Barbara

Where: 1260 Channel Drive

When: The Lounge opens at 11:30 a.m. and serves a bar menu till midnight Sundays through Thursdays and 1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. The Bella Vista restaurant serves lunch 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day but Sunday.

Price: Bar appetizers, $15 to $28; Champagne by the glass, $18. Bella Vista soups and appetizers, $11 to $19; pastas, $14 to $20; main courses, $26 to $30; desserts $10 to $11.

Info: (805) 969-2261, www.fourseasons.com/santabarbara