THIS WEEK: LOTSA LATKES

Latkes, a.k.a. potato pancakes, are a Hanukkah tradition. But what if you don’t feel like doing the grating yourself?

The surprisingly light, deep-golden, crisp-edged latkes Joan’s does for the holiday are available by special order only. With a two dozen minimum, you’ll probably need to be entertaining to justify an order. But the accompanying sour cream and the not-too-sweet homemade vanilla bean applesauce make it easy to polish off quite a few without help. 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A. (323) 655-2285

What distinguishes chef Nabor Diaz’s potato pancakes from classic latkes is the seasoning mix -- a blend of roasted garlic, onion and paprika -- and the double cooking method: a spell on the flat grill before a dip into the deep fryer. 12851 Riverside Dr., Studio City. (818) 761-8985

JOAN’S ON THIRD

HUGO’S

CANTER’S

This beloved deli goes through massive amounts of Russet potatoes all year for its classic latkes. But this time of year, in particular, it’s spud city in the kitchen. Best of all, you can get yours 24/7. Both small and large orders come with sour cream and applesauce. 419 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A. (323) 651-2030

SQUARE ONE DINING

Among the most popular dishes at this sunny 2-year-old breakfast specialist with the sweet patio is a gorgeous, golden lacey potato pancake topped with wilted frisee, a generous tuft of citrus-cured salmon, made in-house, poached egg and an ample dose of luscious hollandaise. 4854 Fountain Ave., L.A. (323) 661-1109

BRENT’S

The dense, crunchy, oval-shaped cakes served at the original Brent’s, which this year celebrated the big 4-0, aren’t made in-house. But they still hit the spot, especially when eaten with their companions: cherry applesauce and sour cream. Brent’s also sells silver-dollar-sized minis for those hosting Hanukkah parties. 19565 Parthenia St., Northridge. (818) 886-5679

-- Leslee Komaiko

theguide@latimes.com