Chefs cook up a little farm aid

A few days after chef Suzanne Goin recently put a lasagna with English peas, wild mushrooms and Parmesan pudding on the menu at Lucques, she had to take it off. That’s because following the big freeze of 2007, the peas were gone from local farmers markets.

So were Goin’s favorite “hippie carrots,” big, delicious, misshapen things from Rutiz Family Farms. Same with Brussels sprouts from Coastal Organics. Ventura County officials have estimated that farmers in the area have lost a record $281 million in crops and nursery stock. Statewide, farmers’ losses could total more than $1 billion.

Goin, who also operates A.O.C., and her husband, David Lentz of the Hungry Cat, decided to do something to help the farmers. Many fellow restaurateurs quickly hopped on board, and so was born Chefs Helping Farmers, a series of dinners and other fundraisers taking place over a few days, from Feb. 8 to 13.

Goin says all profits from a special Sunday supper at Lucques on Feb. 11 will go to farmers including Rutiz Family Farms, Schaner Farms, Coleman Family Farms, Flora Bella Farm, Garcia Organic Farm and Coastal Organics. Niman Ranch is donating all meat for the dinner.

Lentz is planning an all-afternoon “barn raising” the same day at his Hollywood fish house, complete with live music, costumes, hay bales, a Low Country menu (the details of which he’s still pondering) and a special cocktail menu starring citrus from farmer Peter Schaner, who lost about half of his total crop. Lentz also plans to donate all profits from the event to farmers and says many of his employees have volunteered to go without pay that day so that more money can go to the farmers.

Other restaurants are planning various events; each restaurant will determine the proportion of profits to be distributed to farmers. Participating restaurants so far include Grace, Angeli Caffe, Mozza, Canele, Border Grill, Ford’s Filling Station, Ammo, Tiara, the Little Door, Joe’s Restaurant and A.O.C.

Evan Kleiman of Angeli Caffe, who was also instrumental in planning the fundraisers, will throw her usual festive Thursday family-style dinner Feb. 8 with part of the profits going to farmers. In addition, she is planning a late-afternoon fundraising supper Feb. 10.

Kleiman says she hopes the event will increase awareness among diners and market-goers about the farmers’ plight and possibly even compel further goodwill. “If the bag of oranges costs $5,” she suggests, “give the farmer $10.”

“These are people we work with year-round who supply us with our inspiration,” says Goin. “We wanted to one, raise a little money for them, and two, to say, not only are we here for you, but we’re going to do what we can to get you through it.”

-- Leslee Komaiko

Small bites

* Peter Birmingham, sommelier and managing director of the erstwhile restaurant Norman’s in West Hollywood, now is sommelier at Il Grano in West L.A. Meanwhile, chef Michael Bryant has hopped, skipped, and jumped: from Norman’s to Ford’s Filling Station in Culver City and now to BIN 8945.

Il Grano, 11359 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A., (310) 477-7886; BIN 8945, 8945 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 550-8945.

* The owners of Surya, the pretty Indian restaurant on 3rd Street, have opened Holy Cow. There’s no table service at the more casual Indian eatery, a few blocks west of Surya; order your chicken tikka quesadilla at the counter.

8474 W. 3rd St., West Hollywood, (323) 852-8900.