Of winter squash and sweet potatoes

I’VE always associated the color orange with Thanksgiving. Before I moved to California, I lived in a house with a huge tree out front that turned a flaming shade of the color every autumn. And by Thanksgiving, I was so sick of raking up those dead orange leaves that I didn’t care whether I ever saw that color again. Granted, that little phobia didn’t do much for the color scheme on my holiday table, but back then that seemed a small trade-off.

Today, of course, I live where leaves have the good sense to stay on the trees almost year-round. Now, thankfully, I can enjoy the orange colors of autumn right where they belong -- on my dinner plate.

Some of the sweetest and most distinctive tastes of fall come in the color orange: pumpkins and other winter squash, sweet potatoes, persimmons, the first mandarins.

Winter squash are among the most versatile vegetables around. Start with the most basic preparation: Cut them in half, scoop out the seeds and roast them at 400 degrees (cut-side down in a little water in a jelly roll pan) until the flesh is so soft the squash collapses, about an hour. Scoop the meat out of the shell and whip it with some butter and a little cream to make a smooth puree. Fold in some shredded raw apple or add a hint of warm spices such as clove and ground ginger to the puree to make a filling for ravioli or cannelloni.

Thin the puree with stock and you’ve got a nice soup, particularly when the squash is sweetened with dark maple syrup and spiced with roasted chiles, paprika and New Mexican red chile powder. Or for a more traditional take, puree the squash and chicken stock with a base of sauteed leeks and garnish it with some fresh sage leaves you’ve crisped in hot oil.

You can also peel the squash, cut it into cubes and roast or steam. If roasting, give the cubes a turn in some good chile powder and moisten them with pumpkin seed oil first. There are two tricks to peeling: having a good, sharp vegetable peeler, and choosing squash that are smooth-skinned, such as butternut, rather than those that are deeply ridged, such as acorn.

Arrange steamed squash in a buttered gratin dish. Add just enough cream to moisten (because squash is lower in starch than potatoes, it won’t thicken as much liquid), top with grated Gruyere and bake until everything is bubbly.

Whether you choose the starchier golden variety or the denser, sweeter dark orange one, sweet potatoes are just as easy to prepare as winter squash. Roast them on a cookie sheet in a 400-degree oven for 30 to 40 minutes or in a 375-degree oven for an hour. Puree the pulp in a food processor with a nub of butter and a grating of nutmeg. Rather than apple, add small cubes of ripe pear. Sweet potatoes also make a wonderful gratin: Moisten them with cream flavored with a little bourbon and top with chopped toasted pecans.

One of my favorite sweet potato dishes is a twist on the old favorite of sweet potatoes baked with marshmallows. Seriously, this is really good: Instead of the marshmallows, top an orange-scented sweet potato puree with hazelnut souffle.

Fall is ripe with orange fruits, such as persimmons. The smaller Fuyus can be eaten when they are hard. Cut them into wedges and toss them with lime juice and cilantro leaves for a salad or side dish, or toss them with sugar, a hint of orange liqueur and chopped toasted walnuts for a dessert.

The larger, acorn-shaped Hachiya persimmons need to be ripened to the point of squishiness before they can be eaten. But once that’s done, all you need to do is slit the skin in quarters so that the peel opens out like petals, then stir the pulp inside and top it with some bourbon-flavored whipped cream and chopped toasted nuts.

And then there’s citrus: Though the bulk of the harvest starts in December, mid-November is the perfect time for Clementines and Satsumas, the first of the mandarins. Both are seedless, or nearly so.

All you need to do to get them ready for the table is peel them. Well, you can go a little bit further. Rub off any pith, then arrange the sections in a bowl and pour over them honey that’s been warmed with minced rosemary or lavender leaves.

That’s one combination of orange and leaves that I can handle.

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russ.parsons@latimes.com

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Sweet potato puree with hazelnut souffle top

Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes

Servings: 6

Note: From Russ Parsons. You can use either the dark-skinned sweet potatoes commonly referred to as yams, or the lighter-skinned type.

1 (1-pound) sweet potato

Butter for lining the ramekins

2 egg yolks

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons grated orange zest (about 1 large orange)

2 tablespoons ( 1/4 stick) butter, softened

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 egg whites

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/4 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Put the sweet potato on a cookie sheet and bake until a knife easily pierces the meat to the center, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, generously butter six (one-half cup) straight-sided ramekins or individual souffle molds. Remove the sweet potato from the oven and set aside until cool enough to peel.

2. Peel the sweet potato and cut it into chunks. Puree it in a food processor with the egg yolks, brown sugar, orange zest, butter and salt until the mixture is smooth. If necessary, stop and scrape down the sides of the work bowl and continue pureeing. This makes about 2 cups puree.

3. Divide the mixture evenly among the six buttered ramekins. Tap firmly on the counter to settle the mixture evenly. (The recipe can be prepared ahead to this point and refrigerated tightly covered.)

4. Beat the egg whites using a portable or stand mixer until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and continue beating until stiff peaks form. The egg whites will be ready when they form well-defined pointed peaks that stand straight up and retain their shape, several minutes.

5. Sprinkle the chopped hazelnuts over the egg whites and gently fold them in. Divide the egg white mixture evenly among the ramekins, spooning them in a soft mound over the sweet potato mixture. Shake the ramekins gently from side to side to distribute the egg whites evenly.

6. Place the ramekins on a cookie sheet and bake until the tops are puffed and golden brown in spots, 18 to 23 minutes. A sign of doneness is when the souffle becomes extremely fragrant. Don’t over-bake, or the center will be dry. Remove from the oven; serve immediately.

Each serving: 179 calories; 5 grams protein; 22 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 8 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 78 mg. cholesterol; 144 mg. sodium.

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Bruleed pumpkin pie

Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes, plus overnight freezing time for the crust and overnight chilling time for the pie

Servings: 8

Note: From Amy Scattergood. The pie crust is adapted from “Local Flavors” by Deborah Madison.

Pie crust

2 1/4 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1 tablespoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon vinegar

1 egg, separated

Scant 1/2 cup ice water

1. Place the flour, salt, nutmeg and lemon zest in a food processor and pulse to combine. Cut the butter into 1-inch cubes and add the cubes to the flour, pulsing 4 to 6 times to break up the butter.

2. Combine the vinegar and egg yolk in a measuring cup and add enough ice water to bring the volume up to one-half cup. Add the liquid in a steady stream to the food processor, while pulsing, until the flour looks crumbly and damp, 25 to 30 pulses. The crumbs should adhere when you gather them together with your fingers.

3. Turn the dough out and divide into two equal pieces. Wrap each in plastic wrap and press into a disk; refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

4. Roll out one piece into a 12-inch circle, one-eighth-inch thick. Trim the edges flush with the rim of a 9-inch pie pan, place the dough circle into the pan and gently press the bottom and sides to fit. Roll out the other piece to a one-eighth-inch thickness and cut leaf shapes out of it. The leaves can be cut using a leaf-shaped cutter, or by hand using a stencil (ours was 1 inch by 3 inches) and paring knife. Using the back of a dinner knife, press a pattern into each leaf: Press one crease down the center, and 5 or so on each side of the crease. Mix a little water into the reserved egg white and, using a pastry brush, brush a little of the mixture around the edge of the pie crust. Press the leaves around the edge of the crust, overlapping them slightly and using the wash to adhere them, then brush the assembled crust with the wash. Freeze the pie crust for at least several hours and up to overnight.

Pumpkin pie filling and assembly

1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup milk

3 eggs

1 egg yolk

2 tablespoons Armagnac

1/3 cup light brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 cup superfine sugar for bruleeing

1. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, cream, milk, eggs, egg yolk, Armagnac, light brown sugar, white pepper, cloves, cinnamon, allspice and cardamom until blended. Pour the mixture into the frozen pie shell and bake for 15 minutes, turning once for even browning. After 15 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees and continue to bake 25 to 30 minutes more, rotating again. Remove and let cool until room temperature. Chill overnight.

2. Just before serving, carefully fold strips of aluminum foil over the leaf-covered edges of the pie, being sure not to cover the custard. Scatter the superfine sugar evenly over the top of the pie and brulee under a hot broiler until the sugar caramelizes. (Or use a brulee torch if you have one.) Serve immediately, with a dollop of cardamom chantilly cream and candied lemon peel.

Candied lemon peel

1/4 cup of lemon peel, zested or cut into strips 3-inches by 1/8-inch thick

1 cup sugar

Place the lemon peel, sugar and 1 cup water into a small, heavy-bottomed sauce pan. Bring to a boil and then simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes. Remove the candied peel from the syrup with a slotted spoon and allow to cool on wax paper. (Save the lemon simple syrup for another use.)

Cardamom chantilly cream

1 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon powdered sugar, sifted

Whip the cream, sugar and cardamom until gentle peaks form, and refrigerate.

Each serving: 615 calories; 9 grams protein; 53 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 41 grams fat; 24 grams saturated fat; 247 mg. cholesterol; 216 mg. sodium.

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Craft pumpkin tart

Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes, plus chilling time

Servings: 16

Note: Adapted from Craft pastry chef Catherine Schimenti. This recipe requires a 9-by-12-inch rimmed baking sheet.

Cashew tart dough

2 cups cashews

1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

Grated zest of 1/2 orange

1 egg

1 yolk

2 1/4 teaspoons vanilla extract

3 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

1. Process the cashews in a food processor until very fine.

2. Cream the butter and sugar in a stand mixer or in a large bowl using a hand mixer. Add the cashews to the butter-sugar mixture; mix until combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.

3. Add the orange zest, egg and vanilla extract, scraping down the sides again. Add the flour and salt and mix until well combined.

4. Roll the dough between two sheets of parchment paper into a large rectangle, slightly larger than 12 inches by 16 inches and about 1/8 -inch thick. Place the rolled dough flat on a pan and freeze it for 2 to 3 hours until stiff.

5. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Using a ruler, cut the dough into pieces to fit the bottom of the pan and all of the sides of the pan. Once your dough is cut into the exact dimensions, peel away one the parchment paper and fit the pieces of dough in the sheet tray. Seal any cracks by pressing the dough together with your fingertips. Bake until very golden brown, about 25 minutes. Set aside and allow to cool while you make your tart filling.

Pumpkin filling and assembly

2 eggs, divided

1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree

A generous 1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup dark brown sugar

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

7/8 teaspoon ginger powder

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) milk

1/2 of an 8-ounce can of condensed milk

1 baked tart shell

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Whisk one of the eggs into the pumpkin puree (by hand or in a stand mixer). Crack the other egg into a small bowl and whisk to combine the yolk and white; add half of the combined egg to the pumpkin mixture. Discard the other half or reserve it for another use. Add the sugar, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg to the puree and mix until incorporated.

2. Slowly add the milk and condensed milk. Pour the filling into the baked tart shell. Bake on the center rack for 30 to 45 minutes (turning once during baking), until the filling is set and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow the tart to cool.

3. When cooled, place the tart in the refrigerator. To serve, slice the tart lengthwise in half, then slice each half into eight slices. The tart will keep for 2 days, refrigerated.

Each serving: 428 calories; 8 grams protein; 51 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 22 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 81 mg. cholesterol; 289 mg. sodium.

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Peppery roasted squash

Total time: 35 minutes

Servings: 8

Note: From Regina Schrambling

1 dense-fleshed winter squash, about 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 pounds, such as buttercup, kabocha or Hokkaido

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme

1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or chipotle pepper flakes

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt, preferably Maldon

2 tablespoons pumpkin seed oil (or walnut or hazelnut oil)

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Cut the squash in half, slicing through the stem end. Scrape out the seeds (a melon baller or grapefruit spoon makes it easier). Cut the squash halves crosswise in half. Lay each quarter cut-side down on a cutting board and, using a vegetable peeler or very sharp paring knife, cut away the skin. Cut the squash into roughly three-fourths-inch chunks and place in a large bowl.

2. Add the thyme, pepper flakes and salt and toss to mix. Pour the oil over and mix thoroughly with a rubber spatula until all the chunks are evenly seasoned and oiled. Place the squash in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet.

3. Roast, stirring once, until all the squash chunks are tender and caramelized on the bottom, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve hot or warm. (This can be made ahead and reheated in the oven, uncovered.)

Each serving: 72 calories; 1 gram protein; 11 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 4 grams fat; 1 grams saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 293 mg. sodium.