THE ENABLER

The southwestern corner of Beverly and Western encompasses the range of human morality. One vendor claims to offer “Ethical Drugs” and myriad herbal nourishments. But the competing devil on the intersection’s shoulder is the inexplicably yet enticingly named Bobby London lounge. The only thing British about it is a brutal exchange rate, though here it’s for dollars-to-bottle service.

The last time The Enabler paid more than $100 for a bottle of booze, things ended badly. There was public nudity, a plastic squirt pistol and a Hollywood hotel pool. But if the Bobby London cocktail napkins were right, this place was a “Luxury Highclass Bar,” and that behavior wouldn’t fly here.

That is, unless you’re a highballing Asian businessman. Beautiful women in slinky black dresses cater to their every need while a pixie at a white piano sings mournful ballads. One of the waitresses offered The Enabler a fruit platter with a pineapple carved to look like a lobster. She never delivered it. Nonplused, The Enabler staggered into the chilly night air, wondering how and when to finish that pricey bottle -- which, per its policy, the venue holds onto for one month.

Bobby London, you could use a hot dose of ethics yourself. 4574 W. Beverly Blvd., (323) 466-2430.

-- theguide@latimes.com