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THE ENABLER

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A downtown Latino beer hall next door to Grand Central Market recently confirmed the Enabler’s faith in love.

Food Court, an aptly named mess hall the size of a basketball court that serves $10 six-packs of MGD in metal buckets and closes before the sun sets, is about as romantic as we get these days. It being spring, Los Angeles is humming with young lust and such, so when a handsy white couple started making out beside the giant TV set, a grizzled Latino gent bought them a round just for being adorable. It was enough to tug at our cirrhosis-addled heartstrings.

But like love, which only comes when you need it least, a second bucket of MGD appeared on the Enabler’s plastic tabletop just as we were about to leave. The room erupted in cheers as someone scored a goal in a televised soccer game. The kissing couple had missed the explosive scene, off exploring each others’ tonsils next to the bathrooms. God bless them, we thought, even if young love gets all the poems and pop songs.

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Food Court is about fending off the ache of being alone, which is something the Enabler, and downtown, can use more of these days.

327 S. Broadway, L.A. (213) 687-8565

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-- theguide@latimes.com

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