The rebel, tamed
It’s an odd pairing for sure. Anti-establishment designer Tara Subkoff, whose label Imitation of Christ famously held its first New York show in a funeral parlor, is teaming up with the bubbly mall retail chain Bebe on a limited edition collection.
Compared to her work for Imitation of Christ (another runway show featured nude models pushing vacuum cleaners), this is decidedly mainstream, and a departure from her vintage aesthetic.
The clothes are more cutesy than avant garde -- a ruffle wrap dress ($129) and halter top ($59) in a heart print -- which is strange coming from someone who sprinkled bones on the runway at her most recent L.A. show.
Subkoff’s downtown vibe does come through on a black and white striped cotton tee ($59) and short black pleated skirt ($140). She ditches her signature skinny jeans in favor of a nice pair of wide leg trousers ($129) that feature subtle tuxedo detailing. Another solid basic is a black fitted trench coat ($189).
The line’s sole accessory, a pleather heart handbag ($79), is a disastrous addition, better suited for one of Bebe’s cheap-accessory mall mates.
Generally, the line is well constructed. Dresses are lined, trousers are substantial cotton, the basics are well-designed. But the rest of the pieces are surprisingly fussy.
In the end, Subkoff doesn’t really fit in with the scantily clad, amply busted aesthetic that is Bebe. But there’s something a bit subversive about taking it on, and that was probably the point.
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