2005 Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes-du-Rhone

The Perrin brothers, who own the Chateauneuf-du-Pape estate Chateau de Beaucastel, are very much stars of the appellation. But as prices for Chateauneuf creep upward, it pays to look at the brothers’ Coudoulet de Beaucastel, especially in the terrific 2005 vintage. The Coudoulet vineyard is just outside the borders of the appellation, so it qualifies only as Cotes-du-Rhone. But what a Cotes-du-Rhone! Made from a blend of 30% Mourvedre and about the same of Grenache with 20% each Syrah and Cinsault (all cultivated organically), it’s rich and spicy, with a scent of wild thyme and red, red fruit, it’s drinking beautifully now, but it can also be aged 10 years or more. And it’s vibrant enough to make a great showing against grilled chops, roast leg of lamb, or, right now, braised lamb shanks with beans and herbs.

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--S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Rhone Valley

Price: $26 to $33

Style: Vibrant and earthy

Food it goes with: Chops, roast leg of lamb

Where you find it: Amazing Grapes Wine Store in Rancho Santa Margarita, (949) 888-9007, www.amazinggrapes winestore.com; Rosso Wine Shop in Glendale, (818) 330-9130, www.rossowineshop.com; Wally’s Wine & Spirits in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606, www.wallywine.com; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 769-4639, www.winex.com; and the Wine Gallery in Corona del Mar, (949) 675-3410.