PENNY-PINCHING PREPPY
Ralph LAUREN, who built his empire selling a vision of summers at the Cape, yacht races and polo ponies, has turned his attention to the state fair, go-kart racing and the Little League crowd, with prices to match.
His new American Living line, sold exclusively at JCPenney, covers all the lifestyle bases, including men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, accessories, shoes, luggage and bedding.
Lauren’s name is nowhere to be seen, and the trademark polo pony has been put out to pasture in favor of a flag-clutching eagle logo and unfurling scrolls circa 1812. But everything else -- from the brightly colored linen shirts in styles like “Bay Harbor” and “Sea Island” to the Bruce Weber-directed ad campaign of neo-nostalgic yearning for a time that never was -- bears the designer’s distinctive imprint. (American Living was created by the ominous-sounding Global Brand Concepts division of Polo Ralph Lauren.)
The collection is at its strongest with preppy staples that clock in at about half the price of their Ralph Lauren relatives -- or about what you’d pay at a “real” Ralph factory outlet. Men’s rugby shirts are $44.99, polos $29.99, washed-down striped Oxfords $39.99 and Madras shorts $39.99. Women’s long-sleeve boat-neck T-shirts are $30, capri pants $41.25 and seersucker skirts $52.50.
The line launched with these “sale” prices: Every tag arrived with the supposedly original retail price marked down 25% to 40% -- another strategy to acclimate shoppers to prices at the high end of Penney’s offerings.
Overall, the theme is nautical Americana with liberal use of flags and anchors.
The line is sturdy and well-made, with unexpected detail for the price. Khaki trousers have interior waistbands taped in striped Oxford cloth, men’s shorts have bar-tacking, reinforced seats and interior drawstring waistbands, and women’s cotton jackets are cut well with linings that don’t pucker.
The Glendale Galleria is one of only three JCPenney stores nationwide to showcase the entire American Living collection in one space -- a whitewashed shop-in-shop that evokes the feel of an old fashioned general store. On a recent visit, customers seemed unaware of the line’s Lauren lineage. Maria Zuazua, a 59-year-old Glendale resident, was looking for a dress for her granddaughter.
“I like the colors,” she said, holding up a pink shirt dress. “What I don’t like is this,” she said pointing to the eagle and flag logo. Variations appear throughout the line, embroidered on polos, screen-printed on hoodies and shorts or sewn into tags on trouser hips.
She’s apparently not alone: Penney’s clerks said the logo pieces were among the slowest movers.
It’s easy to see why. The spread-wing predator is distracting even in its smallest, inch-long incarnation. When splashed a foot wide on a hoodie, it’s practically a fishhook in the optic nerve, especially given that the brand doesn’t exactly have cachet.
But who knows. In this time of economic uncertainty, saving a few bucks and rounding out your wardrobe with well-made preppy wear might turn out to be a status symbol in its own right.
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