L.A. FASHION WEEK: THE FANTASY EDITION
Sunday |
Premium denim
The strategy
L.A. has made the $200 price tag an American way of life and put names such as Earl Jean, 7 for All Mankind and Rock & Republic on hips around the globe.
The A-Team
2 p.m. | Crate Denim
Chad Hilton and company turn dead-stock denim into raw, simple jeans made right in downtown L.A. As they branch into bags and men’s shirts, they shouldn’t have to leave town to strut their stuff.
3 p.m. | GoldSign
Designer Adriano Goldschmied has fathered more lines than most of us have ever worn. His latest label, born here in L.A., continues the streak.
4 p.m. | Current Elliot
L.A. stylists Emily Current and Meritt Elliott are behind this edgy denim line, which changed the shape of denim from skinny to slouchy when it debuted this year and quickly sold out at Neiman Marcus and Intermix.
5 p.m. | Found Denim
“Easy Rider” roots with couture aspirations, Found melds the look of denim circa 1955 with updated fibers such as bamboo and organic cotton.
6 p.m. | Corpus
In five years, Jerrod Cornish and Keith Richardson’s urban-grunge denim business has grown to include a full men’s and women’s collection and a byCorpus collaboration with Urban Outfitters that features bomber jackets, polos and skinny jeans.
7 p.m. | Monarchy Collection
Until this season an L.A. Fashion Week stalwart, Eric Kim stages the kind of show (think sod on the catwalk and indoor snowstorms) that makes you realize everyone else is just phoning it in.
8 p.m. | Levi Strauss
The great-granddaddy of today’s blue jeans business climbed on the New York catwalk a year ago to unveil a collaboration with artist Damien Hirst -- exactly the kind of young, artsy collection (the company also has an ongoing relationship with the Andy Warhol estate) that would fit L.A. like a pair of well-worn 501s.
-- Adam Tschorn
Monday |
Menswear
The strategy
Carving out a day specifically for lines with a heavy menswear component would serve as a mini men’s fashion week and afford these designers the same access to stylists and Hollywood tastemakers that the women’s lines have, with no chance of marginalizing them.
The A-Team
2 p.m. | House of Cassette
Guys appreciate the silk ties, hand-tailored suits and merino wool sweaters -- not to mention the eye-catching red Cassette jeans Alicia Keys sports on the concert poster for her “As I Am” tour.
3 p.m. | Endovanera
David Hershberger and Mitch Moseley’s menswear line -- which includes assorted capes and cloaks that come off like Oliver Twist by way of the Jedi Council. Did we mention their new Echo Park storefront?
4 p.m. | Modern Amusement
Straight out of sunny Santa Monica, a cavalcade of West Coast color and delightful details that include crow-print board shorts and prep-inspired piping on blazers.
5 p.m. | Trovata
Trovata is bringing its “Vineyard post-grad meets SoCal surfer by way of Newport Beach” line to Palihouse Holloway in West Hollywood this week -- which is a start.
6 p.m. | Band of Outsiders/Boy
L.A.-based ex-CAA agent Scott Sternberg has parlayed a line of skinny ties into a buzz-building juggernaut -- a full men’s and women’s collection and a cool collaboration with Sperry Top-Siders.
7 p.m. | John Varvatos
Rock ‘n’ roll meets red carpet. Varvatos’ love affair with Hollywood is second only to his jones for all things music. Who else has Cheap Trick posing for ads on the Santa Monica Pier?
8 p.m. | Tom Ford
Ford’s year-old eponymous label serves up everything a man of means might want, from dressing gowns and tennis shorts to tuxedos and handmade riding boots. Oh, and he’s dressing Daniel Craig in the next Bond flick.
-- A.T.
Tuesday |
Surf/skate/street
The strategy
The surf and skate brands usually prefer the trade show floor to the runway, but that could change now that more of the core labels shoot beyond the tube and into the office cube in a bid to hold on to the grown-up end of the action-sports demographic. And what better place to showcase the best of the boardsport bunch than sun-drenched SoCal?
The A-Team
2 p.m. | The Hundreds
Influential L.A.-inspired surf/skate/hip-hop-flavored streetwear label with global demand and local roots.
3 p.m. | WeSC
Something about the retro Swedish-slacker snowboard-influenced streetwear line WeAretheSuperlativeConspiracy (or WeSC for short) dovetails perfectly with L.A.’s multicultural through line. (The store on Robertson is one of only two in the U.S.) Think color-blocked dresses with drawstring waists for the ladies and Freddie Krueger-esque striped sweaters for the fellows. And the Swedes would BRING the party. . . .
4 p.m. | Generic Youth
Coming out of Costa Mesa, Jeff and Coco Yokoyama’s father-daughter project is a darling collection of homespun hoodies, tees and jeans.
5 p.m. | Vans
More than checkerboard slip-ons, check out the collection of flannel shirts, leggings, dresses, jumpers and skinny-leg jeans -- and of course tons of cool shoe collaborations with everyone from Marc Jacobs to the Simpsons.
6 p.m. | Volcom
“Youth against establishment” -- rendered in selvage denim, suits for surfer dudes and a selection of saucy skirts and dresses.
7 p.m. | Quiksilver
The Roxy girl is all grown up, now that Quiksilver has a namesake women’s contemporary line.
8 p.m. | RVCA X Erin Wasson
More than just a high-profile partnership with a marquee model, it’s a bicoastal beatnik wardrobe that captures the essence of both coasts.
-- A.T.
Wednesday |
Women’s contemporary
The strategy
Though hardly as dazzling as skin-tight denim or floor-length gowns, the wide swath of looks that fall between Banana Republic and Balenciaga are the backbone of a woman’s wardrobe, and L.A. labels can more than hold their own here too.
The A-Team
2 p.m. | Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent
From silk crepe mini-dresses to floor-length bohemian gowns, Vincent’s day-to-night creations have long led the pack of L.A.’s local design talent.
3 p.m. | Mike and Chris
Originators of the most covetable leather jackets around, this husband-and-wife team is on its way to developing L.A.’s next great lifestyle brand now that they’ve added sporty daywear for men and women, and footwear.
4 p.m. | Jasmin Shokrian
Thoughtfully crafted pieces inspired by art and architecture. Shokrian’s modern aesthetic is always clean and conceptual.
5 p.m. | Corey Lynn Calter
Kicky dresses and separates with a ‘40s flair. Starlet fans include Zooey Deschanel and Jessica Alba.
6 p.m. | Juicy Couture
Put L.A. style on the map with a humble track suit. Now there is a whole Juicy universe.
7 p.m. | Trina Turk
Resort wear for all seasons, punched up with a 1960s Palm Springs aesthetic and pops of fun, bright, but always wearable color.
8 p.m. | Max Azria
You know him, you grew up wearing his BCBG line to school dances. Now he has a more designer-driven line of red carpet-worthy gowns.
-- Melissa Magsaysay
Thursday |
Up-and-comers
The strategy
By presenting a smartly edited group of under-the-radar collections in a single day, smaller lines won’t get lost in the manic shuffle of a major fashion week.
The A-Team
2 p.m. | Unhee
Selma Blair recently made a splash wearing a ruffle-topped black shorts jumpsuit from this L.A. label, designed by Echo Park denizen Suzy Yun. The collection is full of similarly whimsical, girlie pieces, including strapless, tulip-skirted dresses and puff-sleeved, floral-print short-alls.
3 p.m. | Scout
West Hollywood boutique Scout now has its own women’s collection full of artsy looks in unusual prints like neon plaid and tie-dying that resembles solar systems.
4 p.m. | Crispin & Basilio
Philippines-born designer Donny Barrios creates ladylike clothes that look anything but stuffy -- tulip skirts and Grecian-inspired mini-dresses -- hip elegance at its best.
5 p.m. | KZO
Fresh off a Gen Art “Fresh Faces in Fashion” runway debut (just last week) KZO makes men’s clothes that manage to feel outdoorsy and hipster all at once. Think road-ready slim leather jackets and zip-front vests, plaid button-downs, skinny jeans and simple black anoraks.
6 p.m. | Unholy Matrimony
Brett Westfall earned his avant-garde stripes by collaborating with Comme des Garcons on T-shirt lines, but the envelope-pushing L.A. designer has his own subversive collection as well -- full of artsy-yet-wearable pieces such as a T-shirt dress with an eyeball design.
7 p.m. | Wren
Melissa Coker’s classically feminine silhouettes (pencil and tulip skirts, tank dresses and peacoats) are kicked up with details like gold brocade and teardrop cut-outs.
8 p.m. | Rose
A languid and sexy year-old line by stylists Britt Bardo and Jewels Steger that includes liquid-like silk dolman tops, sweeping maxi-dresses in soft jersey, sharp little racer-back vests and slouchy dinner jackets.
-- Emili Vesilind
Friday |
Celebrity designers
The strategy
From edgy sportswear to tailored finery, this all-star lineup of the best celebrity-designed labels will quell any grumblings that singers and actors should stay in their own lanes. And by lumping all the paparazzi bait into one day, the logistical nightmare becomes almost navigable.
The A-Team
2 p.m. | Victoria Beckham
A freshly minted Angeleno, Posh Spice has gone glam with a new line of high-end dresses to complement her dVb denim collection.
3 p.m. | Albert Hammond for Confederacy
Strokes guitarist and solo singer Albert Hammond Jr. teamed up with L.A. stylist and Confederacy store co-owner Ilaria Urbinati for a hip line of men’s suits that puts fit and fabric before trends.
4 p.m. | “Project Runway” finale
Every season, the amateur designer finalists on Bravo TV’s “Project Runway” hit the real, honest-to-goodness Fashion Week runway. What could be more Hollywood?
5 p.m. | The Row
Jet-setting twins Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have already gained entree into the fashion cognoscenti with the Row, their dark, architectural clothing line that sells at Barneys New York.
6 p.m. | William Rast
William Rast, the denim and sportswear line spearheaded by Justin Timberlake and Trace Ayala, has put on some of the most entertaining runway shows in L.A. in recent years. And with Johan and Marcella Lindeberg on the design team, the boys show they’re serious.
7 p.m. | L.A.M.B.
Quintessential SoCal gal Gwen Stefani has built a fashion and fragrance empire with L.A.M.B., her contemporary collection that stirs the pop star’s trademark looks -- from O.C. skate-punk to Vargas Girl -- into one colorful pot.
8 p.m. | Pastelle
The debut of Kanye West’s long-awaited clothing line would be the neon cherry on top of the day’s celebrity lineup. The rapper -- and fashion plate -- puts on a fantastic live show. Expect the same here.
-- E.V.
Saturday |
Designer day
The strategy
Let’s face it. The red carpet is really L.A.’s (the world’s?) most beloved runway. What better city than this to showcase all the best gowns and daytime frocks?
The A-Team
2 p.m. | Katy Rodriguez
A dress-heavy line done with angular shapes, strong lines and a nod to the 1980s.
3 p.m. | Kevan Hall
A favorite of Felicity Huffman, Kimora Lee Simmons and Vanessa Williams, who appreciate his ability to infuse bold pattern and color into his red carpet creations.
4 p.m. | Roland Mouret
Bankrolled by “American Idol” creator Simon Fuller, Mouret has a galaxy of celebrity fans of his sleek, body-conscious dresses.
5 p.m. | Jeremy Scott
Although he currently shows in Paris, Scott’s envelope-pushing, occasionally cartoonish collections -- clothes festooned with manhole covers, candy bars and road signs, are a perfect match for L.A.’s skewed sense of self-parody. Is there a more appropriate runway for his new Adidas blinged-out track suits, dresses, shorts and sneakers?
6 p.m. | Monique Lhuillier
Starting as a bridal designer, Lhuillier has come a long way with her gowns and ready-to-wear collections. Brides-to-be as well as her long list of celebrity clients love to play dress-up at her Melrose Place boutique.
7 p.m. | Rodarte
They’ve become the toast of the international fashion scene, appealing to editors, stylists and socialites. But these Pasadena natives still whip up their dreamy creations here in downtown L.A.
8 p.m. | Marchesa
Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s diaphanous confections are every girl’s fantasy. Their line is undoubtedly one of the most often seen and worn on red carpets all over the world. Plus, Chapman’s hubbie is Harvey Weinstein -- which could prove handy if we ever need someone to greenlight “L.A. Fashion Week: the Motion Picture.”
-- M.M.
