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Anyone searching for yet another leading economic indicator in these hard times should have had a good look at what was on the critics’ plates at the TV press tour in Universal City.

Even just a few years ago, the network-catered lunches were lavish enough that carb-loaded journalists sometimes slumped home after two or three weeks with another inch or two on their waistlines.

This year, though, those of us in the media scrum went on the networks’ new tough-love diet -- we were lucky if we scored ice water and a box of peanuts. Reporters griped that ABC wouldn’t host a wrap-up party Friday night, and NBC refused to cater breakfast or lunch Thursday (Fox, however, offered hot food galore -- which is maybe what happens when you have the No. 1 show on TV for four years running). Sometime soon, the networks are going to rip a page from the airlines and charge journos $25 for every laptop they tote to the news conferences.

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Even more attendees buzzed about the dire prospects for the TV press tour going forward. Attendance at last week’s tour slipped about 10%, to 120 Television Critics Assn. members, compared with 2007 (because of the writers strike, there was no January tour last year), according to TCA President Dave Walker. With newspapers in free fall and network bean-counters slicing budgets, executives grumbled (off the record, of course) that the January tour is a waste of time and money. And they haven’t committed to specific days for the July-August press tour in Pasadena -- usually, the contracts are wrapped up by now -- although when pressed they all promised that their companies will indeed show up.

“It’s really uncertain,” Walker said in an interview.

It’s true that networks have for years been questioning the expense and effectiveness of the press tour. Typically, a day or two of news conferences, room rentals and meals can set a network back at least $100,000. Walker said the networks’ desire to limit or dump their tour participation had become a “constant subterranean discussion.” And in times of deep layoffs everywhere, it’s not surprising that the executive complaints are hitting high volumes. Reporters being reporters, TCA members just want as much access as they can wrangle.

And so it will go on. For how long, no one can say.

Rivals upbeat on NBC’s Leno shift

You could think of this as something of a lost season for ABC. Not, unfortunately for the network, a “Lost” season, although that tropical thriller will return Wednesday for Season 5. But rather a lost season in the sense that ABC was hit hard by the writers strike, its once-reliable hit “Grey’s Anatomy” has stumbled, and no new hits have emerged.

But things might be looking up at the Disney-owned network. And some of the credit goes to . . . Jay Leno?

You recall the news that NBC’s “Tonight Show” host is headed to 10 p.m. next season as Conan O’Brien slides into the 11:35 p.m. slot. For competitors doing scripted programming, the Leno switch is good news because it means less jostling for viewers. It’s an especially strong boost for ABC, which is chasing the same young-adult demographic that NBC covets (at 11:35 p.m., Leno draws older viewers than most of NBC’s prime-time lineup).

Asked about the Leno switch on Friday at the TV press tour in Universal City, ABC programming chief Steve McPherson said, “We’re pleased. We think it opens up beachfront real estate to fewer bidders, if you will.”

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Tweaking rivals for supposedly boneheaded plays is a Hollywood ritual, and NBC has turned itself into such a punching bag that I keep waiting for the inevitable contrarian piece that asserts its programmers’ fundamental brilliance (OK, maybe not). Nina Tassler, CBS’ top programmer, also thanked NBC for the Leno move. An NBC exec complained at the press tour that rivals were “spinning this in a negative way.”

But McPherson may not be just blowing smoke. ABC has been scalded this year by low numbers for its 10 p.m. dramas, including “Dirty Sexy Money” and the new “Life on Mars.” Season to date, it’s tied for third with NBC among adults ages 18 to 49. Stealing just a few tenths of a rating point at 10 on weeknights next season could help turn a weak overall performance into a standout one.

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scott.collins@latimes.com

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