Long on tradition
Every year at my house, we host what we call the “Long Table Thanksgiving.”
It’s a simple tradition, and it does a lot to minimize holiday stress. We provide the birds, and everyone else brings a side dish.
Oh, and we eat at a very long table.
These Thanksgivings started out small enough, a modest gathering of family and friends. That first year, we had just under 20 guests. We were able to fit everyone into the tiny dining area of our little Craftsman bungalow -- it might have been a bit of a squeeze, but we prefer to remember it as “intimate.” The following year, our number grew by a few guests. We moved some furniture around so the dinner could spill into the living room, to give everyone a little breathing room.
Every Thanksgiving since, our gathering has grown a little more. This past year, we had more than 60 guests.
A few years ago, we finally had the sense to move the festivities out to the backyard. We rented a few tables and chairs and set them up along the driveway, and the Long Table was born.
And it’s worked. Count it as one of the blessings of living in Southern California: The weather is almost always cooperative, and a fall evening can be particularly nice. We’ll sit down to eat just as dusk begins to set in, the tables banked on one side with crape myrtles and on the other side with cape honeysuckle, its fiery orange blossoms seeming even brighter in the warm glow of the setting sun.
The Long Table continues to grow, and that growth is the heart of our tradition: Everyone is welcome at the Long Table, and no one is turned away.
My partner, Valerie, and I have been together more than 10 years, and while we’ve been lucky enough to spend our holidays with our combined families, some of our friends have not. Melting pot and magnet that L.A. is, some of our friends may not have local family and can’t afford to return home for the holiday, others don’t yet have roots and places to go. And still others, for whatever reason, are unable to go home with the ones they love to spend the holiday.
Over the years, our Long Table has been graced with a wonderfully diverse group of people. Glancing down the table, you might at first think Norman Rockwell meets Fellini: You’ll see ministers, professors and actors; families with kids or grandparents; couples; old friends and new; gay and straight; guests of every color, race and creed.
And as you start to take in the chatter, you’ll hear small talk and serious conversations, dialogue driven by every political and religious persuasion, sometimes serious, sometimes light, warmed with smiles and peppered with laughter. I’ll never forget the year my grandmother bonded with one of our close friends, a professional drag queen, over makeup tips.
Val and I may host the Long Table, but we can’t claim ownership of it. It belongs to the group, and it evolves from year to year as our gathering grows.
But we do provide the space and the tables. And the turkeys.
We cooked five turkeys last year. Every year I roast a turducken, which -- colossal meat-fest that it is (picture a chicken stuffed inside of a duck stuffed inside of a turkey) -- was just enough by itself to feed our group for the first couple of years. Eventually, I added a barbecued turkey. (I learned quickly that you have to be creative when you’re hosting these large gatherings. We have a small kitchen and only one oven. As the gathering moved outside, so did a lot of my cooking.)
Before too long, we added deep-fried turkeys to the mix. A friend and I will set up a couple of deep-fryers on the back lawn shortly before everyone starts to arrive. Val, a lawyer whose specialty includes homeowner insurance, always cringes a little and looks the other way as we fire up the burners and get the oil going. The turkeys cook quickly, in under an hour, and can be entertaining to watch, particularly for the newer guests.
Everyone else takes care of the sides and dessert. Guests may bring a cherished recipe from their childhood or a dish they’ve continued to perfect for every gathering. The dishes are often classic comfort food, sometimes heavy on the cream of mushroom soup, crackers or French-fried onions. There is no shortage of Velveeta at our table. These are dishes from home, and they speak to the cooks’ memories, not their gourmet aspirations.
Marc always makes a dish or two from his mother’s worn recipe booklet, her corn pudding lightly sweet, a bygone classic. Ron will prepare the wild rice dressing he grew up with in Minnesota, reminiscing how, as a young boy, his father would take him out in a canoe and teach him how to harvest wild rice on the river, knocking it down into the boat. Others, like Andrea, Sharon, Johnny and Sean, have a staple dish we count on every year: broccoli casserole, ambrosia, spinach balls and mac ‘n’ cheese.
We’ve come to count on these dishes -- expect them, even -- as staples at our gatherings, and the Long Table would not be complete without them. Or the hands that prepared them.
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BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX
The successful outdoor feast
These are some of the things I’ve learned hosting my Thanksgiving potlucks outdoors for a large gathering:
Invitations: Send online invitations so people can respond at a common site, such as Evite, Pingg and Crusher, and indicate which dish they’ll be bringing. This is a great way for both you and your guests to keep a running tally of what you will have and what is still needed. Many online invitations offer specific potluck options in which you indicate what you need, and guests check items off the list.
Safety: Food can cool quickly if kept outdoors. Have guests bring dishes that are not temperature-sensitive. Or for sensitive foods, be sure to keep space in your kitchen (a warm oven for warm dishes, and plenty of refrigerator space for cold).
Do-Ahead: Have your guests prepare the dishes before they arrive so you don’t have to worry about providing cooking space and related cleanup.
Stocking up: Depending on the size of your party, have each of your guests bring enough of a dish for at least six to eight servings. You may want to have more than one guest cover staples, such as mashed potatoes, that everyone will want. Ask guests to bring more side dishes than desserts, and be sure some of the guests bring light dishes, such as salads.
Setting the table: Get a rough head count as soon as you can, and place your order for linens and other place settings with a party supply company as far in advance as possible to ensure you can reserve the number of items you need. Plan to rent a few extra chairs, just in case.
Serving spoons and utensils: Guests may not bring a serving spoon or utensil to go with their dish. Keep extras on hand. If needed, you can rent these from your party supply company or buy inexpensive servingware at restaurant supply companies.
Glassware, plates and silverware: Consider whether you want formal or disposable. You can rent china and glassware from a party supply company or purchase disposable items from a party store -- a big plus with disposable is you do not have to wash anything, and you don’t have to worry about breakage. Finally, be sure you have plenty of silverware -- you will need things like forks for dinner and dessert.
Beverages and ice chests: Have guests bring a beverage along with their dish. Be sure to have water and sodas on hand, and plenty of ice. Buy your ice early in the day, before things get crazy, and stock up your ice chests (chill sodas and water, extra ice for drinks).
Cleanup: No one wants to clean up after a party, much less a big dinner. Have plenty of trash cans available during the event, and give yourself some time the next morning for cleanup.
-- Noelle Carter
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Avis Hatheway’s wild rice dressing
Total time: 11/2 hours
Servings: 10 to 12
Note: Shared by Avis’ son, Ron.
1/2 pound wild rice
Salt
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter, divided
1 onion, diced into 1/4-inch pieces
1 cup diced celery, cut into 1/4-inch pieces (from about 2 ribs)
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pound button mushrooms, sliced
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon (1 clove) finely chopped garlic
2 to 3 (103/4-ounce) cans cream of mushroom soup
1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.
2. Rinse the rice well, then boil rice, according to directions, in salted water with the bay leaf until the rice just begins to “pop,” about 40 to 50 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain any excess water and place the rice in a large bowl.
3. In a large saute pan heated over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Cook the onion and celery just until the onion is translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat and season with one-fourth teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper. Toss the onions and celery with the rice and set aside.
4. Heat the same saute pan over high heat. Melt the remaining tablespoon butter, then add the mushrooms. Saute the mushrooms, stirring frequently, until cooked through and lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Stir in the wine and cook, scraping any flavoring from the base of the pan. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the wine is absorbed by the mushrooms or evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and toss the mushrooms with the rice mixture.
5. Stir in the sage and garlic with the rice, mixing well, then stir in 2 cans of the cream of mushroom soup. Add additional soup, if desired, for a more moist dressing (we used 21/2 cans).
6. Place the dressing in a 13-by-9-inch baking dish or casserole and bake until bubbly and lightly toasted on top, about 30 minutes. Cool slightly, then toss the dressing to fluff it before serving.
Each of 12 servings: 165 calories; 5 grams protein; 23 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 6 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 5 mg cholesterol; 3 grams sugar; 419 mg sodium.
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Thelma Collins’ corn pudding
Total time: 1 hour
Servings: 8 to 10
Note: Shared by Thelma’s son, Marc.
2 (143/4-ounce) cans cream-style corn
1 (151/4-ounce) can corn, drained
4 eggs, beaten
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted
1. Heat the oven to 325 degrees.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the cream-style corn, corn, eggs, sugar, flour and butter until thoroughly combined.
3. Pour the pudding into a shallow, 2-quart casserole and bake until set, about 45 minutes.
Each of 10 servings: 182 calories; 5 grams protein; 28 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 7 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 97 mg cholesterol; 9 grams sugar; 368 mg sodium.
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Thelma Moore’s sweet potato souffle
Total time: 45 minutes
Servings: 8 to 10
Note: Shared by Thelma’s daughter, Valerie. She uses drained canned sweet potatoes.
2 cups mashed cooked sweet potatoes
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup milk
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, melted and divided
3/4 cup crushed corn flakes
1/2 cup chopped pecans
1/2 cup brown sugar
1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the mashed sweet potatoes, granulated sugar, eggs, cinnamon, nutmeg and milk until thoroughly combined. Whisk in half (1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons) of the melted butter.
3. Pour the mixture into a shallow, 2-quart casserole and bake for 20 minutes.
4. While the sweet potatoes are baking, assemble the topping. In a medium bowl, combine the corn flakes, pecans, brown sugar and remaining (1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons) melted butter.
5. After 20 minutes, sprinkle the topping over the sweet potatoes. Bake for an additional 10 minutes. Remove and cool slightly before serving.
Each of 10 servings: 348 calories; 4 grams protein; 42 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 20 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 81 mg cholesterol; 31 grams sugar; 63 mg sodium.
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Andrea’s broccoli casserole
Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Servings: 12 to 16
Note: From Andrea Holbrook.
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup diced onions
2 cups sliced mushrooms, about 1/4 pound
1 (10 3/4-ounce) can condensed cream of mushroom soup
1 cup mayonnaise
2 eggs, beaten
1 1/2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese, divided
1 1/2 cups shredded Parmesan cheese, divided
2 pounds frozen chopped broccoli, thawed
1 (6-ounce) can French-fried onions
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. In a large saute pan heated over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Stir in the onions and mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. In a large bowl, stir together the mushroom soup, mayonnaise, eggs, 1 cup cheddar and 1 cup Parmesan cheese until thoroughly combined. Stir in the thawed broccoli, then the cooked onions and mushrooms. Place the mixture into a 13-by-9-inch baking dish.
4. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining cheddar and parmesan cheese along with the French-fried onions to form the topping. Scatter the topping evenly over the broccoli.
5. Bake the casserole until bubbly and the topping is golden-brown, about 45 minutes. Cool slightly before serving.
Each of 16 servings: 297 calories; 10 grams protein; 10 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 25 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 56 mg cholesterol; 2 grams sugar; 471 mg sodium.
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Queen and Diva’s mac ‘n’ cheese
Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Servings: 12 to 16
Note: From Sebrena Smith and Sean Swayze.
1 pound bag elbow macaroni
2 eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
3/4 teaspoon pepper
1 cup sour cream
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted
1 pound Velveeta
1 (10 3/4-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup
1/4 cup milk, or to taste
2 cups (8 ounces) shredded cheddar cheese, divided
2 cups (8 ounces) shredded Monterey Jack cheese, divided
8 ounces goat cheese
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cook the macaroni according to the instructions on the package until al dente. Drain.
2. While the noodles are cooking, in a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, salt and pepper. Whisk in the sour cream and melted butter.
3. Stir the macaroni into the bowl with the egg mixture and set aside.
4. In a large saucepan, heat the Velveeta, cream of mushroom soup and the milk over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the Velveeta is melted and incorporated with the soup and milk to form a nice sauce consistency. Add additional milk to thin if the sauce is too thick. Remove from heat.
5. Stir the sauce in with the macaroni, then stir in half (1 cup each) of the cheddar and jack cheeses. Place the macaroni mixture into a greased 13-by-9-inch baking dish.
6. Spoon the goat cheese in dollops over the macaroni mixture, then sprinkle over the remaining cheddar and jack cheeses.
7. Bake until the cheese topping is melted and the sauce is bubbly, about 30 to 40 minutes. Remove and cool slightly before serving.
Each of 16 servings: 458 calories; 20 grams protein; 27 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 30 grams fat; 18 grams saturated fat; 110 mg cholesterol; 4 grams sugar; 1,023 mg sodium.
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Sharon’s ambrosia
Total time: 15 minutes
Servings: 12 to 16
Note: From Sharon Rushing.
1 pint heavy cream
3 1/2 tablespoons powdered sugar, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, or to taste, plus more for garnish
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or to taste, plus more for garnish
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 (20-ounce) can diced pineapple packed with juice, drained and juice reserved
1 (10.5-ounce) bag mini-marshmallows, preferably multicolored
1 (16-ounce) jar maraschino cherries, drained
2 cups shredded coconut
1 cup chopped walnuts
1 orange, peeled and cut into skinless segments
1 apple, cored and diced
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large bowl, combine the heavy cream with the powdered sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla. Using a mixer, whip the cream to medium peaks. With the mixer running on low speed, add one-fourth cup of the reserved pineapple juice. Taste and adjust the seasonings or pineapple juice to taste. Set the whipped cream aside.
2. In a separate large bowl, combine the diced pineapple, marshmallows, maraschino cherries, coconut, walnuts, orange and apple. Fold in the whipped cream to coat completely.
3. Serve the ambrosia topped with a dusting of ground nutmeg and cinnamon.
Each of 16 servings: 343 calories; 3 grams protein; 41 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 20 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 41 mg cholesterol; 33 grams sugar; 58 mg sodium.
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Johnny’s spinach balls
Total time: 45 minutes, plus chilling time
Servings: Makes about 4 dozen spinach balls.
Note: From Johnny Thibeault. He sometimes adds bacon to the mixture before forming; if desired, stir in 1/2 cup chopped fried bacon before forming the spinach balls.
2 (10-ounce) boxes frozen chopped spinach, thawed
2 cups Italian bread crumbs
1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese, more if you prefer (up to 3/4 cup)
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 to 1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
4 eggs, beaten
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, melted
1. Squeeze any excess water from the thawed spinach and place the spinach in a large mixing bowl.
2. Stir in the bread crumbs, Swiss cheese, Parmesan cheese, onion, garlic, eggs and butter until thoroughly combined.
3. Cover and chill the mixture until it is firm enough to form into balls.
4. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 cookie sheets with foil, and lightly oil the foil.
5. With a spoon, scoop enough of the spinach mixture to form balls approximately 1 inch in diameter. Roll the mixture into balls and place on the foil-lined cookie sheet, spacing them 1 to 2 inches apart. Repeat until all the mixture is used.
6. Bake the sheets, one at a time, until lightly browned and firm, 15 to 20 minutes.
7. Cool slightly before serving.
Each of 4 dozen spinach balls: 45 calories; 2 grams protein; 4 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 3 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 23 mg cholesterol; 1 gram sugar; 142 mg sodium.
